GrahamF Posted April 20, 2017 Share Posted April 20, 2017 What does work and is tried and tested is this. First spray clear acrylic lacquer onto the etching the side you want glue, and when I say acrylic I'm talking car paints here. Then to glue the parts you need to use dichloromethane or MEK using a clean brush and it will naturally run under the etching and reactivate the lacquer and then set and any spillage will just gas off. Graham wunwinglow 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chek Posted April 22, 2017 Share Posted April 22, 2017 As has been said already - and remembering that such peripheral equipment as attached to a frame and not the actual perspex on the original - a PVA clear glue is likely the most commonly available solution for you. The piece is under no stress, apart from gravity. But it's also not as strong a bond as a medium viscosity cyano glue would provide. So as long as your placement is precise and properly on the frame area, and as long as the fumes during curing evaporate up and away from your windscreen, your clear areas should be fine if care is taken. I could also add that a slice of round sprue, either black or painted black, glued to the back of your PE instrument face would give it a more 3-D look. But that's an easily ignored minor detail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmayhew Posted April 22, 2017 Share Posted April 22, 2017 No one's heard of odourless/non-fuming CA? i heard you mention this on FB Jim, but thought it referred just to the fact that it doesn't "smell"! does this mean it does not fog? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesHatch Posted April 22, 2017 Share Posted April 22, 2017 i heard you mention this on FB Jim, but thought it referred just to the fact that it doesn't "smell"! does this mean it does not fog? That's right, it's non-bloom/fog etc. or what other terminology is used. You can glue clear things together without the usual white cloud appearing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wunwinglow Posted April 22, 2017 Share Posted April 22, 2017 Grahams trick with the lacquer works really well with surface mounted etchings on opaque as well as clear plastic, I've been sticking on Eduard parts to my Swordfish this way and it works a treat! Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero77 Posted April 22, 2017 Share Posted April 22, 2017 (edited) If the part is glued on a painted area of the clear part, i use CA, but i mask the canopy before (i always paint the inside of the canopy so it's masked on both sides), so there cannot be any fogging risk. If the PE part needs to be glued directly on somewhere ramaining clear, i use kristal klear or any ther kind of PVA glue. Edited April 22, 2017 by Zero77 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
themongoose Posted April 25, 2017 Author Share Posted April 25, 2017 Ok I used some clear pva glue for now as that was easy to get. Working out well, i just have to leave the parts alone for an hour or so before working with them. This threas has lots of good info in it that I can apply going forward. Will definitely try out several ideas! CANicoll 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mustang JBB Posted July 1, 2017 Share Posted July 1, 2017 What does work and is tried and tested is this. First spray clear acrylic lacquer onto the etching the side you want glue, and when I say acrylic I'm talking car paints here. Then to glue the parts you need to use dichloromethane or MEK using a clean brush and it will naturally run under the etching and reactivate the lacquer and then set and any spillage will just gas off. Graham Can you give me a brand name of the type of laquer you are talking about? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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