Hasegawa Fw 190D-11 Conversion

[DougN]

I'd go with natural aluminium in the engine bay, as late in the war you see lots of unpainted parts (including wheel bays), or RLM02. I have not heard of RLM66 being used outside of cockpits on lufty birds.

[LSP_Kevin]

Thanks for the advice fellas.

 

I have not heard of RLM66 being used outside of cockpits on lufty birds.

 

Me neither. Natural metal sounds like a decent option for the engine bay, though it will make painting a bit of a chore.

 

Kev

[Mikester]

I'd go with natural aluminium in the engine bay, as late in the war you see lots of unpainted parts (including wheel bays), or RLM02. I have not heard of RLM66 being used outside of cockpits on lufty birds.

 

Maybe not applicable here, but by the closing months of the war RLM 02 was being discontinued. 109K's had RLM 66 landing gear and wheel bays, I've also seen Ju 88G's with RLM 66 landing gear. I believe Jerry Crandall stated that he was pretty sure that most of the wheel bays on Doras were RLM 02 though. Anyway I would agree with aluminum for the engine bay.

 

Nice work so far, Kev!

[LSP_Kevin]

Maybe not applicable here, but by the closing months of the war RLM 02 was being discontinued. 109K's had RLM 66 landing gear and wheel bays, I've also seen Ju 88G's with RLM 66 landing gear. I believe Jerry Crandall stated that he was pretty sure that most of the wheel bays on Doras were RLM 02 though. Anyway I would agree with aluminum for the engine bay.

 

Nice work so far, Kev!

Thanks for the feedback and info Mike. I'll go with 02 in the wheel bays and aluminium in the engine bay, with the engine itself being in 'engine colours'.

 

I was at a model show today and picked this up cheap:

 

 

It's apparently based on the old Trimaster D-12 kit, and not especially accurate for a D-11, but I thought it was neat that it features the same markings as the one I'm building (not a great deal of choice really!). At this stage I plan to start this straight away and build it concurrently with its big brother. (Yep, that'll make three concurrent builds... )

 

Kev

[mattlow]

Kev

 

Couple of things you'll probably pick up from the 1/48 kit now - my view is that the Revell D-11 you have is pretty accurate for the D-11 except in not portraying the very subtle bulges on the engine cowl that the D-11/13 exhibited.

 

D-11 had no axial cannon firing through spinner, the shell ejection port of you part is the slightly offset port used by the 190D-13 that had a 20mm cannon firing through spinner.

D-11 had 20mm inboard wing cannon (as you've put in) and outboard 30mm MK 108 cannon (like the 190A-8 bomber destroyers). This means rectangular fairing on top wing and the BIG shell ejection port on lower wing.

 

If you want some more detailed info/drawings, PM me you email address and I'll get something to you.

 

Matt

[LSP_Kevin]

Kev

 

Couple of things you'll probably pick up from the 1/48 kit now - my view is that the Revell D-11 you have is pretty accurate for the D-11 except in not portraying the very subtle bulges on the engine cowl that the D-11/13 exhibited.

 

Thanks Matt. I was aware of that one. It's the same deal with my 1/32 build, and I'll have to decide whether I try to tackle that mod.

 

D-11 had no axial cannon firing through spinner, the shell ejection port of you part is the slightly offset port used by the 190D-13 that had a 20mm cannon firing through spinner.

 

So the shell ejection port on the resin wing centre section has to go?

 

D-11 had 20mm inboard wing cannon (as you've put in) and outboard 30mm MK 108 cannon (like the 190A-8 bomber destroyers). This means rectangular fairing on top wing and the BIG shell ejection port on lower wing.

 

Yep, I knew about the outboard cannon, but the need for the upper wing fairings didn't occur to me until I examined the 1/48 kit. Luckily they're present in the box of Hasegawa spares that Wumm sent me for my 190S build. Thanks again Steve! One thing I'm not sure about though is whether the outboard cannon have the same bulge on the leading edge that the A-8 appears to have. I would assume so, and the ProModeler kit has some indistinct lumps in that area.

 

 

If you want some more detailed info/drawings, PM me you email address and I'll get something to you.

 

Matt

 

Will do! Thanks Matt.

 

Kev

[LSP_Kevin]

Yes,that is definetly a flat gun cover but what confuses me is the fact that I never sold a flat gun cover that was in 2 pieces.I am scratching my bald head on this one.

J

 

I think I've figured this one out Jerry. On close inspection of the two cowling parts, it looks like they were indeed once a single unit; the forward area seems to have broken from the hinged cover part.

 

Kev

[LSP_Kevin]

OK, not much in the way of modelling progress, but I do have a quick question for the D-11 cognoscenti. I'm struggling to work out which of the lower wing bulge panels for the outboard cannon is applicable:



The resin parts came with the resin set, but appear to be two mutually-exclusive pairs. The lower set is identical to the bulges I used on the 190S, and I wouldn't imagine they'd be correct. I've never seen anything resembling the upper set before.

The plastic parts are from a Hasegawa A-8 kit. The set on the left matches closely what ProModeler provides in its 1/48 kit:



Any advice on which is the most accurate choice?

Kev

[Mikester]

 

Kev, if the D-11 wing configuration was like the A-8, when outfitted with the 30 mm cannon in the outboard gun position it had a unique bulge and ejector port arrangement. The ones on the top appear close but tough to say if they're 100% accurate.

[LSP_Kevin]

 

Kev, if the D-11 wing configuration was like the A-8, when outfitted with the 30 mm cannon in the outboard gun position it had a unique bulge and ejector port arrangement. The ones on the top appear close but tough to say if they're 100% accurate.

 

Thanks Mike! In the absence of any more definitive data, I'll go with what the drawing you posted shows. Just not sure yet of exactly the best way to go about it.

 

Kev

[JRutman]

The resin set of lower wing gun covers in the top of your pic is the first set of covers that I made for the 30mm cannons a long time ago. They are the correct bulges and while not perfect,are pretty close. You will have to make the ejection holes yourself.

Interestingly,the new Hasegawa kits include 2 kinds of lower wing bulges and both are not really on the money.

The lower set of resin covers in your pic are my MG/FF covers for the early versions of the FW190.

You will need to add the gun fairings on the leading edge of the wing as well.

HTH

J

[LSP_Kevin]

The resin set of lower wing gun covers in the top of your pic is the first set of covers that I made for the 30mm cannons a long time ago. They are the correct bulges and while not perfect,are pretty close. You will have to make the ejection holes yourself.

Interestingly,the new Hasegawa kits include 2 kinds of lower wing bulges and both are not really on the money.

The lower set of resin covers in your pic are my MG/FF covers for the early versions of the FW190.

You will need to add the gun fairings on the leading edge of the wing as well.

HTH

J

 

Thanks for your input Jerry. What you say is pretty much how I had it figured. I just have to work out how best to incorporate your 30mm gun panels into the existing wing. I imagine the covers are close to flush, so I'm not sure just gluing them on as is will create the right effect, given that it will then represent a (slightly) raised panel.

 

It's also ironic that I went to all that trouble to replicate the early bulge on my 190S, only to discover that I had your set all along.

 

Kev

[LSP_Kevin]

Well, resurrecting and then staying on top of the site updates has taken a lot of my spare time recently, but I've managed to dribble along with some modelling. I finally got the resin wheel bay painted, ready for installation in the wing:



Apologies for the poor photo, but it gives you an idea of what it looks like. I concentrated on the inner section that would be impossible to paint once installed. Out of a combination of laziness and lack of references I left most of the engine block black. I suck at detail painting anyway, and I was really just trying to create an impression of something going on up there. It's still a vast improvement over what you get out of the box!

I'm having to secure the resin piece into the wing in stages due to the fragility of the whole centre wing section, of which one of the joins managed to bust open during the test-fitting stage:



The photo shows it epoxied in place at the rear and sides. I've now glued and clamped the front edges except for the broken section in the middle, which I'll attend to when the rest is secure. I never thought these wheel bays would be this much work!

Thanks as always for checking it out.

Kev

[Loic]

Kev,

your first pic does not do justice to your work I think.

What I see on the second one looks very convincing.

[Christian]

Kev,

your first pic does not do justice to your work I think.

What I see on the second one looks very convincing.

 

Hi Kev,

 

She is coming along nicely, mate.

 

Christian