bevelduc Posted May 6, 2016 Share Posted May 6, 2016 I've been using Testor's Gloss and then Flat coat on my model's for the past twenty years. I would like some suggestions for a better finish. I'm looking for a Gloss coat and the a Dull coat. I've tried the Future Floor Finish and other then dipping my canopy in, I've never at to work right in my airbrush. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hardcore Posted May 6, 2016 Share Posted May 6, 2016 (edited) Future is tricky. It does get better the more layers you add, however. Edited May 6, 2016 by Hardcore Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juggernut Posted May 6, 2016 Share Posted May 6, 2016 (edited) I've used Future/Kleer in the past but the results I got were not what I would have thought they should be. In my experience, spraying Future/Kleer through an airbrush works well but the finish, when dry is more of a semi-gloss than a gloss. If you build up coats, it will turn glossy but at the expense of filling in recessed surface details and panel lines. I use Floquil Crystl-Cote for my gloss coat (enamel) and Testor's Dullcote for my flat coat. I don't know if the Floquil product is available any longer as I think it may have been discontinued (I have enough stashed for several HK B-25's or a few B-17's). Someone may know more on this. In my experience, the finishes that both provide are very good to excellent for decal adhesion/detail conformity and the Dullcote dries dead flat and with a few days cure time, it's pretty much rock hard allowing for weathering. What are the issues you're having with the Testor's products if I may ask? Edited May 6, 2016 by Juggernut Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony T Posted May 6, 2016 Share Posted May 6, 2016 Is there any product available in Europe that does what smelly old Microgloss and Microflat used to do? (The milky water based stuff out there doesn't do it for me.) Anyone tried the Mr Paint clear coatings? I'm thinking that's maybe the best avenue. Tony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottsGT Posted May 6, 2016 Share Posted May 6, 2016 Find some test mules and practice, practice, practice with acrylics and Future. I found out they spray completely different from enamels. I have best results misting on the first few coats (about 3) to provide a base for heavier coats to "bite" into and gloss out. As far as a semigloss or flat surface, I have had success lately using Tamiya flattening agent added to Future. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Posted May 6, 2016 Share Posted May 6, 2016 (edited) I use mostly testors enamel paints and decant the testors flat,semi gloss and gloss coat spray cans (testor part numbers 1959,1960 and 1961) into a mixing bottle and then into my airbrush. The rattle cans are already thinned to airbrush spraying consistency so no need to thin it. It makes a little mess if your not careful though. Edited May 6, 2016 by The Dude Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeanKB Posted May 6, 2016 Share Posted May 6, 2016 Future works, albeit it needs lots of thin coats to work well. I also use Humbrol Modelcote - works very well, but expensive for what it is and seems to take longer to dry than it should. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D.B. Andrus Posted May 6, 2016 Share Posted May 6, 2016 Have you tried Tamiya's X-22 clear gloss? Have heard good things about it. HTH, D.B. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hardcore Posted May 6, 2016 Share Posted May 6, 2016 (edited) Find some test mules and practice, practice, practice with acrylics and Future. I found out they spray completely different from enamels. I have best results misting on the first few coats (about 3) to provide a base for heavier coats to "bite" into and gloss out. As far as a semigloss or flat surface, I have had success lately using Tamiya flattening agent added to Future. What is your ratios of tamiya + future? Edited May 6, 2016 by Hardcore Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chek Posted May 6, 2016 Share Posted May 6, 2016 What is your ratios of tamiya + future? It's difficult to measure, as one is liquid and the other a paste. Generally, I'd add a half Swann Morton scalpel blade full of Tamiya paste to an airbrush cupful (10 ml?) of Future. Mostly, that'll come out dead flat, but sometimes it'll turn a chalky white. Likely that's humidity related. While I like the dead flat when it comes off, I hate the chalky result, so I tend to err on the side of a very slight sheen at which I'll stop Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David66 Posted May 6, 2016 Share Posted May 6, 2016 I've had great results using the Alclad range of clear varnishes. They're air-brush ready, dry very quickly and are fairly bullet proof, they have 5 different finishes from Clear Kote Gloss (the shiny-est) to Clear Kote Flat (the matt-est). For a dead flat/matt finish, Vallejo Flat Varnish thinned with Vallejo Air-brush thinner and a drop of Vallejo drying retarder also works very well. Tony T 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hardcore Posted May 7, 2016 Share Posted May 7, 2016 I don't care about future, but are we talking about spraying gloss on a canopy? I have heard of future on a canopy, but not a gloss coat. I usually plastic polish my canopies. No, canopies are of course masked, after having been treated with a dip in future. We are talking about general finish here. At least i hope so! :-D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hardcore Posted May 7, 2016 Share Posted May 7, 2016 It's difficult to measure, as one is liquid and the other a paste. Generally, I'd add a half Swann Morton scalpel blade full of Tamiya paste to an airbrush cupful (10 ml?) of Future. Mostly, that'll come out dead flat, but sometimes it'll turn a chalky white. Likely that's humidity related. While I like the dead flat when it comes off, I hate the chalky result, so I tend to err on the side of a very slight sheen at which I'll stop Yeah, my experience to. Myself i measure the flat base and future in drops, but the ratio given in the future guide seems off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero77 Posted May 7, 2016 Share Posted May 7, 2016 I've been using various clear coats during the past years (Alclad lacquers, Xtracrylics and others) but at the moment the best i found are the tamiya acrylic clear coats. There is a gloss, satin and flat, and they work nicely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottsGT Posted May 7, 2016 Share Posted May 7, 2016 I usually mix up a small batch of the flat and future and spray a test panel and adjust accordingly. I start with small amounts and work up. I'll have to give the Tamiya acrylic clears a try. My LHS doesn't carry them though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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