1to1scale Posted August 6, 2017 Author Share Posted August 6, 2017 Almost ready for primer, I still need to do a little edge sanding on the cowl, mask the canopy, clean up some of the seams. Now I need about two hours get that done. Luckily I have Montex masks for the canopy, so that should shave a few hours off the normal canopy masking sessions. jgrease, tomv87 and sandokan 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joel_W Posted August 6, 2017 Share Posted August 6, 2017 (edited) They are far from 100%, but I originally was going to not expose the engine at all, so only the tips of the exhaust would be seen. I painted the whole assembly black, but then thought that I might as well practice weathering and painting large engines. All I had done before was 1/72 radial engines, so this was a testbed with different paints, washes, and techniques. I am actually pleased how the engine came out as I had no idea if any of it would work. I have now decided to leave the top panel removable, but will probably leave it sitting on the model in the display cabinet. So far, each model I have built this year is some kind of learning experience with a new skill or technique. I really make it a point to try something new on each model. The goal is to build a show winner one day. This one won't be it, but I have a few kits stashed for when I feel I am ready to try and build one. As for this kit, it will be a first for a few things... 1. First 1/32 kit, my eyes can't take another 1/72 scale photoetch throttle lever. 2. First weathered engine, more than just black wash. 3. First all painted on markings, other than stencils, no decals. I plan on doing a Trumpy F6F5 Hellcat next, and trying to wire that engine. Joel, I gave up 1/72 scale a million years ago. I can't even see 1/48 scale that well, so I moved up to 1/32 for single engine props and small jets. I've been toying with the idea of getting one of those craft cutters, and learning how to make simple masks, then move on to more difficult ones. So you're already ahead of me on the old learning curve. Two airplanes I'm dying to build (multiple times each) in 1/32 scale is a P-51B, and a F6F-3 & 5. Unfortunately, neither exists that this time. As long as you're willing to live with the odd shaped fuselage behind the cockpit, then go for it. I'll be following your build from day 1. Joel Edited August 6, 2017 by Joel_W SapperSix and Shaka HI 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1to1scale Posted August 13, 2017 Author Share Posted August 13, 2017 Had a few minutes yesterday and was able to do a little masking and throw down a coat of black base primer. This is the second project I used the Stynylrez primer on, and it works great! Even if you put it down way too thick in one area, it levels out nice. Also covers great, dries fast, and dries very hard. So far I have used the white and black primers and I like them. MikeMaben, Shaka HI, LSP_Kevin and 2 others 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joel_W Posted August 14, 2017 Share Posted August 14, 2017 Aces on the primer coat. Smooth as silk Joel SapperSix 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Williams Posted August 14, 2017 Share Posted August 14, 2017 You've done a great job so far! Those photos show how messed up the Trumpeter cockpit is, though. The seat is almost on the floor, and there is no room for the pilot to put his legs under the IP, even with them straight out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick K Posted August 14, 2017 Share Posted August 14, 2017 Welcome to LSP. I'll be watching this. I'm working on an Hawaiian P40 as well. Summer has been slow with kids home. Hope to pick up bench time in a few weeks when kids return to school. Might not want to hear this. Noblekraft makes resin exhausts for P40B/C TRU kit. They are much improved and worth the $$. Your build is looking great, continued success! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1to1scale Posted August 14, 2017 Author Share Posted August 14, 2017 I would definitely have ordered them if I knew. If I build another as an AVG, ill order them and build a new cockpit floor too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Intruder503 Posted August 15, 2017 Share Posted August 15, 2017 I'm really enjoying this! Thanks for sharing! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1to1scale Posted August 16, 2017 Author Share Posted August 16, 2017 sorry, no updates. I have been playing with a new airbrush, I have a cheap master G22, which works ok, but does not do close up detail very well, and tends to spatter a bit. I ordered an Iwata NEO to play with, so far I am not impressed. I don't think it performed any better than my G22. So I spent an after playing with setting for both, I noticed whenever I cleaned the tip on the neo with a cotton swab, fibers would get snagged. When I removed the needle, it seemed sort of rough. My Master is better than that. I spent some time with a polishing sponge and polished the needle, I also did the master too. I plan to load up some more paint and test again. If I dont get spectacular results, I will send it back and possibly order a Harder & Steinbeck. Unfortunately, I cant spend over $200 on a nice Iwata right now. sandokan 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1to1scale Posted August 20, 2017 Author Share Posted August 20, 2017 Have not had a lot of time to play this week, but had an hour tonight to get my masks on, it took several tries to get the wing insignia on, the top wing is not perfect, but after three tries, it fairly close. The bottom wing insignia is a little crooked and I may just try to take another shot at it tomorrow. I got both fuselage insignia pretty much dead on. There is a learning curve to using masks and I definitely learned some things. I also customized and chopped up my "300" to become a "160" for Lt. Welch's bird. I believe I can also cut up the tail number from "18P to make a "15P" I am still a little confused as to what parts of the mask do I leave on for the insignia, should I remove the parts of the mask outside the star but inside the circle, or should I leave them in place until after I spray upper and lower color? LSP_Kevin, sandokan and jgrease 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1to1scale Posted August 22, 2017 Author Share Posted August 22, 2017 Saturday morning I painted the lowers in Vallejo USAAF grey, I gave it a day or two to dry. I finally got a few hours to work on painting tonight. At the last minute, I decided to remove the blue part of the mask, and I loaded up the new Neo airbrush with some Vallejo USAAF olive, after debating about masking, I freehanded the transition after playing with my modified Neo and being able to get a small line down. I'm still a little shakey freehanding, but I think I did ok. I gut a little schmutz here I need to sand off and touch up later... Overall, I think the new airbrush did well, I'm sure I will need to touch up a few areas along with some of the insignia white as the masks did not like the overly thick steps between the baggage door and fuselage, the numbers on the wing roots may need some also. Gazzas, SapperSix, sandokan and 4 others 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1to1scale Posted August 22, 2017 Author Share Posted August 22, 2017 Now I can't wait to get the insignia blue down. Have I mentioned that I hate decaling? Shaka HI and sandokan 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Intruder503 Posted August 22, 2017 Share Posted August 22, 2017 I think your freehand work is very nice! Looking very good so far! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dennismcc Posted August 22, 2017 Share Posted August 22, 2017 This is looking great, I also hate decals and tend to do all my markings with masks, when I can get them that is. Cheers Dennis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joel_W Posted August 22, 2017 Share Posted August 22, 2017 Your OD top coat really looks good. Nice job on the free handing the demarcation line. Joel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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