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#16 mozart

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Posted 23 January 2016 - 08:30 AM

I'm an organised worker too Shaka (a place for everything and everything in its place) but it doesn't slow me down because I can instantly put my hand on any tool, paint pot, piece of plastic/metal sheet, wire etc etc instead of spending ages rummaging looking for it. Can't stand clutter!! :)
Max
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#17 Shaka HI

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Posted 24 January 2016 - 06:10 AM

Thanks Max, but I think I'm a bit different in that I get involved in the "collateral" stuff more in an attempt to avoid the real work somehow..not sure how to explain it. It's like doing taxes and gathering all your paper work, filing them, cleaning your desk, cleaning your keyboard (try getting crud off between the keys!) and bunch of other stuff when you should be filing your taxes!

 

Anyway, I'm curious on how I should correct a part that was twisted in the sprue..it's the rear portion of the prop. After snipping the part of and doing a little sanding, I noticed that there's a slight indentation:

 

LNFwDNv.jpg


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#18 Shaka HI

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Posted 24 January 2016 - 10:55 PM

Make a little "V" cut. Cut some leftover sprue to fit and add some Tamiya thin cement...It will need some CA as filler, but it sure beats putty -- which was my initial inclination.

 

Time to get back to work!

 

tdydT07.jpg


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#19 Shaka HI

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Posted 25 January 2016 - 01:37 AM

No color coat, but interior primed with black Vallejo primer received in the mail just yesterday (acrylic, so I can get it shipped!). Love this primer -- more than the Badger!

 

jEYssQS.jpg


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#20 dmthamade

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Posted 25 January 2016 - 02:59 AM

I'm amazed how fast you're progressing on the build and doing such a clean job on it!! I have to ask, is the black strictly a primer or are you using it as a preshade?

 

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#21 Shaka HI

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Posted 25 January 2016 - 04:57 AM

You know I'm not sure TBH....someone here posted some pictures of what is a restored Spitfire and I thought: "Well, that looks really nice". Until I discovered it's an actual Spitfire. So I thought I do something to add some "dimension". Not exactly, "weathering" like how I see some folks here do (and I am completely awed by their execution), but I feel it needs something? When I get confused with a real Spitfire for a model, I'll definitely need to do something to make a model look more real.

 

I added some nicks/chips/highlights to the IP with a graphite pencil...not sure if it looks OK, but whatever...I'm experimenting a little.

 

PAKtEUE.jpg


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#22 mozart

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Posted 25 January 2016 - 08:21 AM

I sometimes do a dark base coat in my cockpits, usually German aircraft which have an RLM66 finish and then spray the top coat from above at a constant angle. This creates a "shadow" which gives depth to the cockpit.

DSCN6634_zpsc3f54c28.jpg

Max

Edited by mozart, 25 January 2016 - 08:37 AM.

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#23 Phartycr0c

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Posted 25 January 2016 - 10:35 PM

Again another great build coming together keep it up.! 


Eagles may soar, but weasles dont get sucked into jet engines!

#24 Shaka HI

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Posted 26 January 2016 - 02:23 AM

I sometimes do a dark base coat in my cockpits, usually German aircraft which have an RLM66 finish and then spray the top coat from above at a constant angle. This creates a "shadow" which gives depth to the cockpit.

[..Pict Link Removed..]

Max

 

 

 

 

 

 

I like that..I might have to "borrow" that idea!


Edited by Shaka HI, 26 January 2016 - 02:23 AM.


#25 Shaka HI

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Posted 31 January 2016 - 12:49 AM

Engine components primed and first color coat for the cockpit. Enjoy your weekend folks!

 

QiICSzI.jpg


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#26 Shaka HI

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Posted 01 February 2016 - 12:11 AM

More color coats...waiting for it to dry for detail brush painting. Experimenting with the exhaust a bit....

 

Vne9Ivx.jpg

 

 

No plans to add paint the "NMF" stuff in the interior, but looks like it's fairly visible. LHS did not have AS12, so I used what ever "Aluminum" paint I had which kinda sucks, but it's barely visible...

 

I think I spent more time cleaning the AB after the silver compared to masking/painting this "colour".

 

kXfKiaA.jpg


Edited by Shaka HI, 01 February 2016 - 12:37 AM.

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#27 Shaka HI

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Posted 02 February 2016 - 07:01 AM

Major Engine components assembled/painted...this is a lot of fun, I hope I don't lose any steam...I'll need to somehow add some dept/interest to all that black!

 

t6cIEHA.jpg


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#28 geedubelyer

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Posted 03 February 2016 - 09:17 AM

Neat progress Shaka.

 

Major Engine components assembled/painted...this is a lot of fun, I hope I don't lose any steam...I'll need to somehow add some dept/interest to all that black!

 

 

 

Black can be a challenge to bring depth to. Many modellers choose a dark grey as a base and work back up to black. Because scale can help with the illusion, dark grey can still look like black.

 

If you were to airbrush a very dark grey over the black but spray it from the top down it would automatically create natural shading. The top of the rocker covers would be pretty much dark grey but the undercuts would remain black and accentute the shadow effect. Use a thin wash of black all over to re-instate the detail then a final subtle dry-brush of very dark grey to make the highlights "pop". Some guys even dry-brush with a light grey or white which really gives an artistic, high contrast effect. A bit of experimentation should give you a chance to see what you prefer.

 

HTH

 

Cheers.


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#29 mozart

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Posted 03 February 2016 - 05:53 PM

Neat progress Shaka.

 

 

Black can be a challenge to bring depth to. Many modellers choose a dark grey as a base and work back up to black. Because scale can help with the illusion, dark grey can still look like black.

 

If you were to airbrush a very dark grey over the black but spray it from the top down it would automatically create natural shading. The top of the rocker covers would be pretty much dark grey but the undercuts would remain black and accentute the shadow effect. Use a thin wash of black all over to re-instate the detail then a final subtle dry-brush of very dark grey to make the highlights "pop". Some guys even dry-brush with a light grey or white which really gives an artistic, high contrast effect. A bit of experimentation should give you a chance to see what you prefer.

 

HTH

 

Cheers.

All very sound advice!

Max


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#30 Shaka HI

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Posted 04 February 2016 - 07:01 AM

Neat progress Shaka.

 

 

Black can be a challenge to bring depth to. Many modellers choose a dark grey as a base and work back up to black. Because scale can help with the illusion, dark grey can still look like black.

 

If you were to airbrush a very dark grey over the black but spray it from the top down it would automatically create natural shading. The top of the rocker covers would be pretty much dark grey but the undercuts would remain black and accentute the shadow effect. Use a thin wash of black all over to re-instate the detail then a final subtle dry-brush of very dark grey to make the highlights "pop". Some guys even dry-brush with a light grey or white which really gives an artistic, high contrast effect. A bit of experimentation should give you a chance to see what you prefer.

 

HTH

 

Cheers.

 

Tried to mist a thin dark grey which definitely looks better (top-down)  -- scale-wise. I should follow up with some black washes and dry brushing to get some detail out. It does look better, just harder to convey through photography...Thanks for the ideas (even if my execution is lacking).

 

 

2qftrGV.jpg


Edited by Shaka HI, 04 February 2016 - 07:08 AM.

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