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How do I cut a canopy...


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#1 themongoose

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Posted 12 May 2017 - 03:19 AM

...without breaking it? I have an idea for creating a 1/32 T-38 so I can complete a Thunderbirds aircraft from the Belcher bits resin kit and the Hasegawa kit. I need to cut 3/8" off the end of the canopy in order to make the middle section (for the pilot).
I have two complete cockpits for the plane now. I will use the standard canopy for the rear seat. Sorry for the long explanation, thought it may help to describe what I'm doing so that if someone has a different idea they could toss that out too.

Edited by themongoose, 12 May 2017 - 03:22 AM.


#2 Shaka HI

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Posted 12 May 2017 - 04:06 AM

I'd use a nice, fine razor saw!


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#3 LSP_Kevin

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Posted 12 May 2017 - 04:28 AM

Pack out the underside of the canopy with some form of malleable putty or clay, otherwise you risk crushing or snapping the brittle clear plastic.

 

Kev


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#4 Hardcore

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Posted 12 May 2017 - 08:27 PM

This? http://www.radubstor...products_id=448

#5 DeanKB

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Posted 12 May 2017 - 08:46 PM

Pack out the underside of the canopy with some form of malleable putty or clay, otherwise you risk crushing or snapping the brittle clear plastic.

 

Kev

 

 

 

These two are absolutely correct!

 

I use Radu's razor saw, although I use the larger, fine saw blade. It gives a bit more solidity and cuts straight, just let the blade do the cutting and don't force it.

 

Maybe use some thick Dymo label tape to mark the cut area, use it as a guide.

 

http://www.radubstor...products_id=316

 

RB-T016.jpg



#6 themongoose

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Posted 13 May 2017 - 01:08 AM

Ordered a Radu tonight. Will post a pic or two of how it goes!

Edited by themongoose, 13 May 2017 - 01:09 AM.

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#7 Shawn M

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Posted 17 May 2017 - 06:56 PM

i used a pe saw and a scriber on my tiffy


I dont suffer from AMS, I revell in it..get it...Revell


#8 dennismcc

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Posted 18 May 2017 - 03:52 PM

I would go down the packing the inside route but also use masking tape on the outside to protect the clear plastic from slips, the Radu saws as stated are superb for cutting.

 

Cheers

 

Dennis


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#9 Shawn M

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Posted 18 May 2017 - 07:39 PM

yes, slips happen and cause sanding...and more sanding.....and more....you get the point


I dont suffer from AMS, I revell in it..get it...Revell


#10 Jessie_C

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Posted 22 May 2017 - 05:36 PM

You can also try scribing. Mark your cut line with a piece of Dymo tape, and then repeatedly run your scriber gently over the line, getting a little bit deeper with each pass. Once you have a nice deep mark the saw can't skip out of, then you can complete the cut with the saw.


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#11 Zero77

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Posted 23 May 2017 - 04:03 PM

I usually use this kind of razor saw (JLC razor saw) when i need to cut clear resin or plastic. It works nicely, but you better protect the areas close to the cut (if your hand slips...).

Since a few builds, i even use it to rescribe some panel lines, when the surface is not smooth, or on very curvy surfaces.

 

DSCN4506.JPG


Edited by Zero77, 23 May 2017 - 04:05 PM.

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Still on the bench : Tamiya F-15E, Fly Ba349, WnW Roland D.VIa, Revell EC-145, Kinetic F-86F-30, Tamiya F-4E, Revell Bae Hawk T.1a, Williams Bros Gee Bee R, Trumpeter F8F Bearcat, Hasegawa + Lone Star models Curtiss Hawk III, Roden Nieuport 27, WNW DH.2, Alleycat Gloster Gamecock
 
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