Hobby Boss IL-2M3 (*DONE* and more pics added to Pg.7!)

[mywifehatesmodels]

No problem, OD. The QB pipes are basically the same as the kit, just that each pipe is a single piece, instead of having to assemble each from two halves. I think I should be able to install, paint, then mask them before the final assembly and this should be a little easier to align them, even if it creates kind of a masking headache. (Edit: Forgot to add that I'll be replicating the weld seams with Archer's weld seam decals)

 

I'm going to have to put this build away for a bit. Have to finish the BF2C build, asap and my Ju-87A is scheduled to be here on Friday. I want to be able to start working on that, right away, too. Once those are finished, I can get back to concentrating on this one. I want to be able to put more into this model than the Stuka, which will be basically OOB.

 

Thanks again to everyone for watching and commenting.

 

John

 

(Edit #2: I've also changed my mind again on paint scheme. However, this time it's for good. But, more on that when the time comes to paint/finish! )

Edited October 7, 2014 by mywifehatesmodels

[Out2gtcha]

Nice work John!

 

i didnt realize the OOB Trumpy kit needed such a major correction on the rear fuse.

 

Did they intend to model this after a different version, or did they just not notice there were no panels on the 1:1, and just added the panel lines irroneously?

[mywifehatesmodels]

Brian,

It's my understanding that the earliest versions (single seaters) had metal rear fuselage and outer wings. As things progressed, they switched to wood for the outer wings and rear fuselage. There are variations at some factories, however, and depending on the variant. The swept "arrow" wing variant had a wood rear fuselage. The construction of the outer wing depending on the factory where it was built (as per the sovietwarplanes website: "The new wing was put in production in late 1943, both in metallic (for Z.18) and in wooden form (for Z.1 and 30). In May 1944, Z.1 and 30 switched to the metal wings, that were lighter and adsorbed battle damages better.").

 

My guess is that they (Hobby Boss/Trumpeter) decided to go with one pattern to fit all of this, even if it means not being correct for some variants (but they could have left the rear fuselage bare on the two seaters?). Perhaps the thought was (if they gave it that much thought) that it would be easier for a modeler to fill in panel lines and rivets where they were not needed, instead of rescribing/riveting where they were? There are also some other details that would have to be changed, especially with the wooden outer wings, such as the shape of the landing light fixture and the gun access panels, etc. I can kind of understand this approach, since covering all the variations would be a huge undertaking and result in a ton of different kits on the same theme. Would they be able to sell them all? Probably not. I think sales are limited on this subject to begin with (I have no tangible evidence of that, but I don't see many built and I've read a lot of the comments and discussions surrounding the Tamiya 1/48th release; most of it not so positive, with regards to whether or not the market "needs" another 1/48 IL-2).

 

In the end, I'm still happy to have some options for Sturmoviks in "my" scale, even if it means a little extra work to get it to look how I want.

 

John

Edited October 7, 2014 by mywifehatesmodels

[Iain]

Great project! 

 

And agreed that if allowing a few foibles through that can be fixed easily, in exchange for a range of types being available - gets my vote...

 

Iain

[mywifehatesmodels]

I'm bumping this, since I finished my Stuka, yesterday. I hope to have this done before Christmas.

 

So, "Let's get this party started, ladies"......

 

 

 

John

[Kagemusha]

Straight back in the saddle! Don't know if it's been mentioned, Profimodeller make a pitot tube gun barrels set, both long and not so long!

[mywifehatesmodels]

Straight back in the saddle! Don't know if it's been mentioned, Profimodeller make a pitot tube gun barrels set, both long and not so long!

Absolutely! I have to keep moving while I have my mojo goin'.

 

I have not seen the Profimodeller set. I will probably just run with what I have, BUT I haven't seen the set yet, so I could change my mind. Google, here I come!

 

 

 

I just had my first experience with the AKAN paint. Again, these are from their lacquer line and it was recommended that I use Tamiya Lacquer Thinner, about 50/50, as the colors are a bit thick from the bottle. This is exactly what I did and I have to say that I'm very impressed with what I'm seeing so far. I shot the A-14 Steel Gray on the interior parts and it sprays extremely smooth. It dries very fast (but not too fast) and, so far, seems almost fool proof, in terms of application. The only complaint that I have so far, is that it has a very strong smell. I haven't had a buzz like that since.....a very long time ago.   The A-14 does seem a bit on the dark side, but I think I'm going to do some weathering and fading to the cockpit, anyway. So, it should work just fine, as is. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that the other colors go on as well, especially for the camo.

 

 

Cheers,

 

John

[Guest Peterpools]

John

Nice work and that you for the info on the AKAN paints. Yup, has to be true lacquer if it smells like that.

Keep 'em coming

Peter

[mywifehatesmodels]

Thanks, Peter!

 

The cockpit is pretty much done, spare a few small parts that still need some paint and some touch-ups. I tried my hand at using oils for a wash. They work great with the AKAN lacquer, as there doesn't seem to be any reaction between the two mediums. The MM enamels on some of the details are a different story. But, this is the first time I've really used oils for this, so it's a learning experience and I'm testing things as I go. Everything seems to fit really well, so far. I have the pit dry fit into the fuselage and it's buttoned up with a couple pieces of tape. Even though you can see the seams clearly, everything appears to be very tight and firm when I push them together. My fingers are crossed that it will stay that way when it comes time to put the glue to it!

 

Here are some pics of my progress, so far. I'm choosing to leave out some of the details that won't be visible when everything is together, just to save some time (and I learned from the Stuka that some of them may even get in the way, later on).

 

 

 

 

 

I'll probably get the rest of the interior finished and start on the engine, tomorrow. I know that I'll have to put the engine in so that the exhausts have something to mount to, but it's going to be the absolute minimum of parts. I also will be using the Quickboost exhaust pipes and will be adding some Archer weld seams to them. I imagine that's going to be somewhat time consuming.

 

Thanks for checking in!

 

John

[mywifehatesmodels]

This morning I've been working on the engine and exhausts. This is the first time I've ever used a Quickboost product and I have to say that I really like this exhaust set. I was worried about removing the individual pipes from their stubs without damaging them, but so far they've all snapped off cleanly. They take just a few passes with a sanding stick to clean up the mating surface and then they fit perfectly. The kit pipes are all two halves per pipe and would be pretty fiddly to assemble. The QB pipes make this a lot easier and they look better, too. I'm also adding the Archer resin/decal weld lines to the pipes. I used these on my Hs 129 build and really liked them. They're a little more difficult to get fixed to the curved pipes, but a bit of micro-sol is helping them set in.

 

The QB pipes after a shot of Mr. Surfacer 1000:

 

 

One side installed on the engine and with the Archer weld seams applied:

 

 

I'm letting that dry for a bit and then will hit the other side. I left most of the engine parts on the sprues, as they won't be seen or needed. My goal is to have the engine, firewall and intake duct all installed and the fuselage buttoned up, by tonight.

 

Cheers,

 

John

Edited November 21, 2014 by mywifehatesmodels

[dennismcc]

Looking good, I hope to get around to my kit sometime soon, so I'm taking notes.

 

Cheers

 

Dennis

Edited November 21, 2014 by dennismcc

[mywifehatesmodels]

Thanks, Dennis.

 

Well, I have something for you to take notes on, for sure.... I got the engine painted and installed to the firewall. All was good. I installed the clear side panels at the front of the fuselage. All went well. I installed the engine to the right half of the fuselage as I normally would. Again, all looked good, even though squeezing the exhaust pipes through that small opening was very, very tight. Then, I did a test fit of the left fuselage half and found this....

 

 

As you can see from the photo, the exhaust pipes stick out from the right side quite far, while on the left side they're barely poking through, in comparison. There are two tabs on the fuselage halves where the engine mounts are supposed to key into (they are below the exhausts). I dutifully glued the mounts to them, as shown in the instructions. However, this engine isn't near wide enough to glue them tight on both sides. I'll have to go back through some other people's builds and see if they had the same problem and how they fixed it, but I don't recall seeing it before. I think what I may end up doing is just floating the engine up there and see if that helps. The firewall fits just fine and you can still close up the fuselage with a little pressure. It's just the off-center engine that's the problem.

 

Also, I remember from EmperorKai's recent build that he had trouble with the bulkhead behind the pilot, as it sat up too high. I sanded some plastic off the base of the bulkhead and did a test fit of the canopy and center section (spine) to be sure that wasn't going to be an issue down the road. So, all should be good there, as well.

 

John

[Guest]

Good luck John. Good looking build though......Harv 

[mywifehatesmodels]

Thanks, Harv.

 

I've dealt with bigger problems. I'm sure I'll overcome this one. Just sick of dealing with problems, though.    I may have to build another Hasegawa 190 after this.....just to make myself feel better.

 

John

[mywifehatesmodels]

Problem solved!

 

First I pulled out the engine and removed the cylinder banks with the exhausts still attached. Then, I put the banks/exhausts into position and blocked them in with sections of sprue and CA glue.

 

 

Then, I had to figure out how I was going to attach the prop. The IL-2 (and this kit) does not have any sort of front "plate" on the fuselage. It's open with the front of the engine directly behind the spinner/prop. I decided to cut off the front of the engine block and crankcase and see if I could get it to fit and line up properly. The rear of this "new" engine front is still basically keyed to the front of the cylinder banks where they would have been connected before. They just don't align quite the same way after my butchery.   So, I was able to glue the bottoms of the banks to the top of what's left of the engine block. But, just to be sure things wouldn't move, I cut another short section of sprue and blocked in the lower front of the crankcase, as well. I was checking the alignment of the prop as I went, of course.

 

 

Once I was satisfied with that, I glued the top front cowl panel on and she's ready to go.

 

 

Next, I think I will start working on wing/belly center sections so that I can get the wing root fairings squared away (the panel lines that don't exist on the kit where the metal meets the wood!). I feel like I'm ready to hot rod through this build now, but I know that there are a ton of tiny PE exterior parts in my immediate future, too.   Stay positive.....stay positive......

 

John