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MtFlyer

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About MtFlyer

  • Birthday 10/18/1938

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Twain Harte, California
  • Interests
    I like to build 1/32nd WWII props and Post WWII Jets. I have built Trumpeter: F- 105G, F8F B1 Bearcat, Revell: F4U-4 Corsair, F4F-3 Wildcat Special Hobby: P-39K Airacobra, F2A Buffalo and Hasegawa: F6F-3 Hellcat,and A4E Skyhawk and am in the process of building a Trumpeter Mig 17. I don't mind updating some of the older kits and have in my sights the Revell F4-J and F4-E Phantoms. At my age 70 I prefer the larger kits because my eye sight is not as good as it once was and I have a little trembling in my hands. You would think the trembling would be a real problem but surprisingly it isn't. I compensate by resting my hand, and a couple of other tricks.

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  1. GeeBee: Thanks for the info. just what I wanted to know. Looking at the photo I can't tell if the Creep was OD over grey or a VERY faded black? MtFlyer
  2. Would like any general info but especially need Serial Numbers and a drawing of the "Creep" marking and shape and a guess at colors of the creep. Any help appriciated MtFlyer...aka Keith The photo come off the net from the Warbired Information Exchange please respect the copy write laws.
  3. I would hope so, since their are a lot of really colorful Seastar's. It wouldn't be a simple conversion since the cockpit glazing is totally different and read fuselage and tail have to be reconfigured. We Navy fans can hope someone does it.
  4. Hi Ludek: I built a P-39L from the kit last fall and used Zots decals. I really enjoyed the build but I did have a few problems. I knocked over a bottle of liquid glue and it found the canopy. It melted it! I e-mailed Special Hobby and they sent me a replacement at no cost even though it was totally my fault. At the time I was building it a few people said they had a problem with the wing to fuselage fit but mine went together with no filler required. I did have a problem with the landing gear. It isn't a very positive fit and I had to re-glue the main gear a couple of times. I have seen the same problem with Trumpeter kits. A nice deep hole and nice thick pin would be so easy to engineer. I also had a problem with showing the car doors open the little tabs are fragile and I had to replace one. All in all it was a great kit and a welcome build. MtFlyer...aka...Keith
  5. I would really like to use the kit decals supplied in the 1/32 Trumpeter A7E Corsair II for VA 192 "Golden Dragons" but I have had such poor luck with other Trumpeter decals I am afraid to try them. Has anyone out there built the A7E and used the Golden Dragon decals. What kind of luck have you had? MtFlyer aka...Keith
  6. I am looking for a 1/ 32nd U.S. Navy Deck Crew figure era 1960-1980. Anyone know who make these figures. MtFlyer...AKA...Keith
  7. Pappy: That is a B e a u t i f u l picture of a TBD. I think Mr. Song's heart strings will be touched by that picture alone. What is this about the A6 Intruder being a rumor? I thought that was a false rumor about the rumor. MtFlyer.
  8. Pappy: I would also like the TBD Devastator to fill out my USN collection. Also, speaking of unsuccessful aircraft not seen in 1/32nd, how about a SB2C Helldiver, and a Vindicator from the battle of Midway. But, I agree that Trumpeter really owes us the TBD we have heard it is coming for way too long. Why say it is coming and then not deliver. MtFlyer
  9. Barry: Thanks for the info. Could the F-8J leading edge flap be replicated by scribing a panel line down the center of the kit flap? Or is there more to it than that? MtFlyer...aka...Keith
  10. I understand that the F-8J had had a larger Stabilizer than the F-8E How much bigger? Does any one have a drawing of the size difference? Also I understand that the leading edge flap was a "double Droop" flap can anyone describe how you would display that ,on a 1/32nd model? How about the articulated flaps how would you show them on a model? Mtflyer
  11. Hey Guys: A couple of weeks ago I inquired about which model F8F that was used by the Royal Thai Air Force and received a great reply from Brian. It seems all the F8F sent to Thailand were F8F-1's. Thanks again Brian. You remember Brian who did "Black 2300"with a natural metal finish in foil. Wow! What a great build. Brain mentioned that the decals for 2300 from Siam Models were wrong. The decal sheet shows black and yellow tail stripes and Brian and several artist color profiles showing it in blue and white. I e-mailed Siam Models and asked for their documentation on the yellow strips and they sent back the following e-mail: Keith: Confirm by Mr. ASI (RTAF Officer) real color is Yellow-Black. In your picture as seen in White is Yellow (pale) Bearcat Photo From Mr.ASI and Photograph by Capt. Suthep You see the band from tail in the real picture. 1st band is red (pale). 1st band is flight specified : Red,White,Blue,Green. 2nd band is yellow (pale). 3rd band is Black. and alternating you can see clearly yellow band from the lower of tail. Summary : Yellow-Black Tail. Best, Sethapong Mongkolsawat I am attaching the photo that Brian sent me. It looks like a Squadron Signal publication , the color photo that I got back from Siam Models which is from the Royal Thai Air Force Museum site and the great side view I can't remember where I found it on the web but will be glad to credit or remove it as desired if the owner will contact me. Is it yellow or blue. It looks like blue is my best guess Any photo interpreters out there. Anyone stationed in Thailand during the Viet Nam war that can recall seeing a F8F and remembers the colors? MtFlyer...aka...Keith OOOPS could only upload the Thai Museum photo.
  12. Hi : Being older than dirt I have had a tough time handling small photo etched parts for seat belts. On my most recent build of a Trumpeter SBD-5 I came up with a way to easily handle small seat belt parts. I take a small strip of 1/4" Tamiya tape about 1 1/4 inches long and stick it over the part I need to manipulate leaving the opening for the seat belt un-taped. It really made making the seat belts much easier. I know you young guys just use tweezers but your day will come so file this away.
  13. Fred: I tried some vinyl-coated wire and the only problem was that it repelled the super glue!. What I used was aircraft instrument wire. It was real fine but sort of stiff. So as soon as I can get to the hardware store I am going to see if there are different types of wire coating. I have some lead- fabric coated fishing line that might work but it has a tendency to fray were you cut it. Maybe I can coat it with diluted white glue before I cut it. When I get home I’ll try it tonight. MtFlyer…aka…Keith
  14. Sounds reasonable and inexpensive. I'll try it. MtFlyer...Keith
  15. Fred: I had the same question would a 1/24 connector be out of scale. A one inch connector in real life would be 1/32nd of an inch in 1/32nd scale. I had some 3/64th brass tubing which is just a hair over 1/32 of an inch and it looked good. But I couldn't cut it without having 50% of them fly into the carpet. The DM sight didn't give the actual measurement . Since a couple of people said they tried tried the DM # 1 connectors and liked them. I decided to order a set and see how they look. MtFlyer...Keith
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