Shawn M Posted June 19, 2017 Share Posted June 19, 2017 Late to the party but I will lend my Vallejo experience as I use it on everything I've built over the last 2-3 years. I use water to clean up and flush the cup, I will wise the Media or Vallejo cleaner to really clean it out. For thinner I use water or Vallejo Thinner. Some colors can be sprayed out of the bottle while others needs some thinner medium, varies from color to color. Prime I shoot straight (no thinner). It will tip clump/clog more then a Tamiya Acrylic. I use a q-tip and warm water to clean the tip when it starts to act up (usually after a looong spray session). I'm using an Iwata HPCR brush CANicoll 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CANicoll Posted June 20, 2017 Share Posted June 20, 2017 Hi Chris, No, not MRP! I've got those as well and they are terrific but chemically they are similar to Mr Color which is lacquer based and smelly as anything. I mean MMP, which is Mission Models Paint, based in Salt Lake City. Currently they have a range of Armour paints but are working on aircraft colours for imminent release. When I first tried the paint I contacted them to say how impressed I was with the concept and asked if they had planned for aircraft. Jon's prompt reply enclosed a photo of a half painted 109 in a spray booth, unfortunately not for distribution, so sorry, no photo here. So as I've got a gazillion 109's, 190's and Ta-152's to paint I'm actually a very happy bunny. I can tell you the paint is good, goes on thin, smooth eggshell finish, no graininess whatsoever, more like a lacquer than acrylic. It's not as thin as MRP but way better than the rest of the acrylic gang out there. Most of my immediate modelling circle are Armour modellers and they are all having a go with it and getting good results too. Hope this has cleared a few things up! Regards, Bruce Crosby AHHH!! Ok good, thanks for the clarification! Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CANicoll Posted June 20, 2017 Share Posted June 20, 2017 (edited) Shawn: I have the same HP-CS and also use that for the primer, but I do thin the primer a bit to avoid the try tip/clogging issues. Per PeterPools advice I do also use a bit of retarder as well. For fine detail work I use the Infinity but that open tip makes is so much easier to clean the needle. What pressure do you usually use for primer, and painting? Thanks,Chris Edited June 20, 2017 by CANicoll Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn M Posted June 20, 2017 Share Posted June 20, 2017 Chris, primer I shoot about 15-20psi Paint totally depends on what effect Im after but lets say 15psi. CANicoll 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce_Crosby Posted June 20, 2017 Share Posted June 20, 2017 Hi Guys, I use two primers, Mr Surfacer 1200 or 1500 from a bottle, not the rattle cans, thinned with Mr Levelling Thinners and shot thru Gunze's Ps-290 fan spray. Generally it's at about 20psi and goes on dead smooth. Being lacquer based it clings on the the plastic like a second skin. The second is Badger Stinylrez, as recommended by Badger it's shot neat, no thinning, with the pressure up at 25-30 psi, once again thru the Ps-290. It's packaged as the UMP primer in some markets. Why the Ps-290? It's made for putting on primers. Massive gravity feed paint cup. 0.5 needle/nozzle combo with interchangeable front ends. One will give you the standards round pattern spray, the other a flat fan. I use the flat fan spray, I can lay down paint so quickly it's over in a blink of the eye. With a normal airbrush you can probably quadruple the time and get a patchier coat. I consider it to be one of my best modelling buys ever, it's that good. And it has a gun type trigger, so it's a point and squeeze operation, no worrying about the air on first, air off last rule, it's built in! Hope this is of some help. Regards, Bruce Crosby Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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