AlexM Posted April 5, 2015 Author Share Posted April 5, 2015 (edited) Hi there As mentioned above, I tried to adjust the parts of the left wing, so that I could build the internal frame for both wings. Well, strange enough, the upper inner half of the left wing already had the correct shape (at least what I believe to be correct at the moment ) with the inner leading edge being straight, and the outer one being swept. So, no cuts were necessary here Unfortunately, this can't be said about the lower inner half of the left wing. So I made a cut like I did with the right wing - and cut away too much I filled the gape with some plastic and a bunch of curses, and finally laid the left wing parts away before something worse happened... On the right wing, I already made som spars and ribs. I first used 1mm styrene sheet, but that prooft to be too weak. Now the parts are made of massiv 2 mm sheet. I can't say that creating the ribs makes that much fun, as every single rip is different and has to be adjusted to the wing-parts. Here we go: Cheers Alex Edited August 12, 2017 by AlexM Kagemusha, sandokan, Starfighter and 1 other 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain Posted April 5, 2015 Share Posted April 5, 2015 Ooops - how could I miss this!!?!! Brilliant work, ace subject - off to read back through whole thread... Have one of these gathering dust in the loft. Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexM Posted April 5, 2015 Author Share Posted April 5, 2015 Btw, what is the correct color for the wheel wells and the landing gear? I would paint them aluminium like on the restored Hampden in Canada. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peterpools Posted April 5, 2015 Share Posted April 5, 2015 Alex fantastic progress on the wings internals Keep 'em coming Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexM Posted April 7, 2015 Author Share Posted April 7, 2015 (edited) Hi there, small update: Most of the spars and rips have now been glued onto the upper half of the inner wings. The left wing looks much cleaner without all that scribbling, but it should be identical to the right one. I first made the parts for the right wing, glued them with verly little super glue on the styrene sheet, and cut around with a sharp hobby knife it just one time. Then the original parts were removed from the sheet, and the copied parts were cut out and sanded smooth. It worked easier than I thought. The heights at the intersection points are not perfectly equal everywhere. But at least the are equal on the upper side of the wings (the parts you can see turned over on the pictures). The distance between the rips is about 20 - 25 mm. I think it could have been wider. Maybe not all planned rips for the outer wings will be necessary. The right wing: left wing: (drumroll)... both together: Cheers Alex Edited August 12, 2017 by AlexM blackbetty, Starfighter, Anthony in NZ and 4 others 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starfighter Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 Stellar work - I am very impressed, to say the least! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexM Posted April 9, 2015 Author Share Posted April 9, 2015 (edited) Stellar work - I am very impressed, to say the least! ... says one Homer to another Homer Question: What do you think would be the correct color for the wheel wells and the landing gear? Interior green (like on most Hampden models I found on the internet), aluminium, some kind of gey, or even black like the whole underside? Edited April 9, 2015 by AlexM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cees Broere Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 (edited) Alex, Difficult question, prewar aircraft usually had natural aluminium wheelbays and undercarriage legs. Later this was changed to black. This was to prevent reflection when coned by searchlights. The Canadian Hampden reconstruction has aluminium legs (probably to cover up corrosion) and the Cosford project has black undercarriage legs. Looking at photographs would be a good idea. The book Hampden Squadrons has good close-up pics, but some of these are taken prewar. Decisions decisions. Cees Edited April 9, 2015 by Cees Broere AlexM 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexM Posted April 10, 2015 Author Share Posted April 10, 2015 (edited) Thanks Cees for your answer. I was afraid it won't be that easy I play with the idea to finish the model as the P1333 'EA-F', of No. 49 Squadron. There is a picture of it on the first page of the Warpaint booklet. On Wikipedia there is another photo of that particular aircraft from another perspecitve. The landig gear appears to be very dark on that picture, especially in contrast to the bright (silver/aluminium?) wheel rim, so that might be indeed black I made some progress on the right wing. As mentioned above, from the photos/drawings I know the wheel well don't appear too complicated. Now, that's my easy interpretaiton: During the SM.79 built I experienced that it's difficult to glue the two thin wing halfes together. Especially during sanding the seam tended to split. Now on the Hampden, I glued some styrene tubes and rods along the inner leading edge to give provide much more surface for the glue. I decided to cut the inner under wing half into three pieces, and to replace the inner one with some styrene sheet to provide a clean covering of the wheel wells. Above that styrene sheet, the lower nacelle will be attached later. Then, I covered the complete right wing with the exception of the wheel well area. For the outer wing, I finally used zero rips. It turned out that two full and one half spars would provide enough stability for the outer wings. The less work the better The mountings for the rear part of the landing gear is pure speculation, since I know no photo of that area. It's just my interpretation of the descripton from the original manual. There it states, that this part of the landing gear "is mounted in a bearing block behind the main plane spar aft of the engine." Now, I have to persuade the covering of the whell well (consisting of 1mm styren sheet) to adapt to the airfoil (especially at the leading edge). Cheers Alex Edited August 12, 2017 by AlexM Hubert Boillot, Bill Cross, Cees Broere and 4 others 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert Boillot Posted April 10, 2015 Share Posted April 10, 2015 Great progress, Alex ! Makes me want to start mine (but I have other projects to finish first) Hubert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brahman104 Posted April 10, 2015 Share Posted April 10, 2015 Very nice Alex! There's an awful lot of work gone into each of those wings there. Very neat work too. This is going to come out a treat Craig Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loic Posted April 12, 2015 Share Posted April 12, 2015 Awsome modelling ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peterpools Posted April 12, 2015 Share Posted April 12, 2015 Alex Brilliant work and a joy to follow Keep 'em coming 'Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexM Posted April 14, 2015 Author Share Posted April 14, 2015 (edited) Howdy folks, thanks for all your kind comments Little progress, the wings are still far away from being finished. I received the correct sized enginge cowlings from Hubert. Again a big thank you Adjusting the nacelles to the correct size will be a bit tricky. Right now, I just put together the wings and fuselage to demonstrage the size of the model. Nobody said it would be tiny Talking about the wheels, the masters for the kit parts don't seem to be too bad at all. For example they offer some nice tire tread. But if you pull a 1mm styrene sheet over to create the vacuform parts, not much of the detail remains on the outer surface of the plastic. Maybe I will use resin cast wheels using the kit parts as a mould. The diameter of the wheels was 1120 mm according to the original manual, so exactly 35 mm in 1/32. Unfortunately, the resin cast wheel is just a bit less than 34 mm, but I think I could live with that Here is a first try (in fact the very first resin casting I have ever done ) Cheers Alex Edited August 12, 2017 by AlexM sandokan, Hubert Boillot, Bill Cross and 4 others 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted April 14, 2015 Share Posted April 14, 2015 A Hampden! How cool is that? Kev Kagemusha 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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