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1/32 Handley Page Hampden (Tigger Models)


AlexM

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Hi there

 

As mentioned above, I tried to adjust the parts of the left wing, so that I could build the internal frame for both wings. Well, strange enough, the upper inner half of the left wing already had the correct shape (at least what I believe to be correct at the moment :) ) with the inner leading edge being straight, and the outer one being swept. So, no cuts were necessary here :frantic:

Unfortunately, this can't be said about the lower inner half of the left wing. So I made a cut like I did with the right wing - and cut away too much :BANGHEAD2:

I filled the gape with some plastic and a bunch of curses, and finally laid the left wing parts away before something worse happened...

 

 

On the right wing, I already made som spars and ribs. I first used 1mm styrene sheet, but that prooft to be too weak. Now the parts are made of massiv 2 mm sheet. I can't say that creating the ribs makes that much fun, as every single rip is different and has to be adjusted to the wing-parts. Here we go:

 

 

zCh4xh3.jpg

 

boMlzZ4.jpg

 

Cheers

Alex

Edited by AlexM
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Ooops - how could I miss this!!?!!

 

Brilliant work, ace subject - off to read back through whole thread... Have one of these gathering dust in the loft.

 

Iain

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Hi there, small update:

 

Most of the spars and rips have now been glued onto the upper half of the inner wings. The left wing looks much cleaner without all that scribbling, but it should be identical to the right one. I first made the parts for the right wing, glued them with verly little super glue on the styrene sheet, and cut around with a sharp hobby knife it just one time. Then the original parts were removed from the sheet, and the copied parts were cut out and sanded smooth. It worked easier than I thought.

 

The heights at the intersection points are not perfectly equal everywhere. But at least the are equal on the upper side of the wings (the parts you can see turned over on the pictures). The distance between the rips is about 20 - 25 mm. I think it could have been wider. Maybe not all planned rips for the outer wings will be necessary.

 

The right wing:

 

SmEq38r.jpg

 

left wing:

 

Gagjr3G.jpg

 

(drumroll)... both together:

 

F5XWHK5.jpg

 

Cheers

Alex

Edited by AlexM
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Stellar work - I am very impressed, to say the least!

 

... says one Homer to another Homer :)

 

Question: What do you think would be the correct color for the wheel wells and the landing gear? Interior green (like on most Hampden models I found on the internet), aluminium, some kind of gey, or even black like the whole underside?

Edited by AlexM
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Alex,

 

Difficult question, prewar aircraft usually had natural aluminium wheelbays and undercarriage legs. Later this was changed to black. This was to prevent

reflection when coned by searchlights. The Canadian Hampden reconstruction has aluminium legs (probably to cover up corrosion) and the Cosford project has black undercarriage legs. Looking at photographs would be a good idea. The book Hampden Squadrons has good close-up

pics, but some of these are taken prewar. Decisions decisions.

Cees

Edited by Cees Broere
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Thanks Cees for your answer. I was afraid it won't be that easy :)

I play with the idea to finish the model as the P1333 'EA-F', of No. 49 Squadron. There is a picture of it on the first page of the Warpaint booklet. On Wikipedia there is another photo of that particular aircraft from another perspecitve.

 

The landig gear appears to be very dark on that picture, especially in contrast to the bright (silver/aluminium?) wheel rim, so that might be indeed black :hmmm:

 

I made some progress on the right wing. As mentioned above, from the photos/drawings I know the wheel well don't appear too complicated. Now, that's my easy interpretaiton:

 

2vew2MK.jpg

 

k3Vzhwo.jpg

 

 

 

During the SM.79 built I experienced that it's difficult to glue the two thin wing halfes together. Especially during sanding the seam tended to split. Now on the Hampden, I glued some styrene tubes and rods along the inner leading edge to give provide much more surface for the glue.

 

b5Sfl0j.jpg

 

I decided to cut the inner under wing half into three pieces, and to replace the inner one with some styrene sheet to provide a clean covering of the wheel wells. Above that styrene sheet, the lower nacelle will be attached later.

 

20150408_173834_zpsw4thvpgv.jpg

 

Then, I covered the complete right wing with the exception of the wheel well area. For the outer wing, I finally used zero rips. It turned out that two full and one half spars would provide enough stability for the outer wings. The less work the better :frantic:

 

t8KL7q4.jpg

 

vVU8mcN.jpg

 

The mountings for the rear part of the landing gear is pure speculation, since I know no photo of that area. It's just my interpretation of the descripton from the original manual. There it states, that this part of the landing gear "is mounted in a bearing block behind the main plane spar aft of the engine."

 

Now, I have to persuade the covering of the whell well (consisting of 1mm styren sheet) to adapt to the airfoil (especially at the leading edge).

 

20150410_183832_zpszi8ggrit.jpg

 

Cheers

Alex

Edited by AlexM
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Howdy folks, thanks for all your kind comments

 

Little progress, the wings are still far away from being finished. I received the correct sized enginge cowlings from Hubert. Again a big thank you :thumbsup:  Adjusting the nacelles to the correct size will be a bit tricky.

 

Right now, I just put together the wings and fuselage to demonstrage the size of the model. Nobody said it would be tiny :)

 

vDxjqqa.jpg

 

6p3QCvo.jpg

 

56ygC9F.jpg

 

 

Talking about the wheels, the masters for the kit parts don't seem to be too bad at all. For example they offer some nice tire tread. But if you pull a 1mm styrene sheet over to create the vacuform parts, not much of the detail remains on the outer surface of the plastic. Maybe I will use resin cast wheels using the kit parts as a mould. The diameter of the wheels was 1120 mm according to the original manual, so exactly 35 mm in 1/32. Unfortunately, the resin cast wheel is just a bit less than 34 mm, but I think I could live with that :hmmm: Here is a first try (in fact the very first resin casting I have ever done :frantic:)

 

bInjT4Z.jpg

 

Cheers

Alex

Edited by AlexM
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