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Spider cracks in Future..


Shaka HI

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I've had the problem as well, and I use Gunze and Tamiya almost exclusively.  I believe, and this is just my feeling. BTW, that the issue occurs when I'm in a hurry and don't allow enough time for the paint to dry.

 

So with Gunze, I let is sit overnight, and with Tamiya, I allow 2 days. I've never had another problem.

 

I wish there was another simple and affordable option to avoid Future coats, but let's face it, it's cheap, plentiful, sprays perfectly, and gives a perfect surface for decal application.

 

I just learn to accept it's limitations and pray it doesn't bite me at the worst possible time.

 

Ernie,

  I moved away from an overall gloss coat using Pledge/Future/Kleer or whatever name it goes by in one's country.  I've achieved the same or better results from Model Master Glosscoat. I've just tried Tamiya X22 and got great results as well.  I've read Chuck's method for using Pledge, and his final coat is the secret; a wet very well thinned out coat, that just smooth's everything out. I've tried it with Glosscoat and it works equally as well.

 

  But as you pointed out, the biggest plus that Pledge has is it's cheap price. One bottle will last nearly a life time. I get two aircraft out of one 52ml bottle of Glosscoat.

 

Joel

 

Joel

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I wish there was another simple and affordable option to avoid Future coats, but let's face it, it's cheap, plentiful, sprays perfectly, and gives a perfect surface for decal application.

 

There is - been using it for years - better than Future/Clea/Klear IMHO - and sprays beautifully. Others' mileage will vary of course  :)

 

Iain

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Around the £10/£11 mark if I recall correctly - current bottle has been on the go for something like 6 years.

 

I think pretty well all the models I've posted here on LSP in that time have used it as a gloss coat for decalling...

 

Iain

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Erm (hurries to find suitable caveat) - what works for me may not work well for others - don't blame me if it all goes horribly wrong!  ;)

 

Was recommended to me by someone on another forum and I like it  :)

 

Bottle still half full!

 

Iain

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Guest Peterpools

Shaka

Yikes - Terrible news for sure - the P-26 finish was awesome in every respect.

I'm as guilty as anyone in rushing and not letting my paint thoroughly dry before applying the clear gloss and then decaling away. Then another  gloss  coat after decaling and lastly the finished exterior clear coat. I've been lucky and not having any real issues of cracking over the years. With central air and hot air heat, our house always has very low humidity and that's one of the keys: humidity.

Humidity is a big factor in drying times and the higher the humidity, the longer the paint or clear coats need to completely dry. Very low humidity is just the opposite and the paint dries so quickly, I always use a retarder to slow down the drying times.

I've also never experience any ill effects from shooting one type of paint over another; whether is it enamels, acrylics or lacquers. Once the first layer is completely dry and not just surface dry, any type of paint can be air brushed over and type of paint, always starting with mist coats and slowly build up the layers. Heavy, wet layers can react with the layer of paint you are shooting over and there will be problems down the road.

We all tent to flow the gloss clears on and they are thick layers, with loads of solvents and those solvents will begin to eat into the paint layer and that's the start of the problem.

Future and clears on top of decals and the problems magnify as the decals will not let the clear gloss coat adhere to the paint under it and the drying time over a decal is longer then over paint. The thicker the clear gloss layer, the more chance there is of cracking as it dries and shrinks over time.

I've been a Testors Glosscote user for decades and now have switched to Tamiya X22, thinned with X20A.

Bottom line is Future and or Kleer was made for floors and not delicate models. I know it does work and have a numbers of models finished that way.

Once the cracking has begun, it's tough to bite the bullet but I really can't see any way of removing the clear coat with out removing the entire finish. Unfortunately, I've had more then my share of experience stripping completely painted models for a number of other reasons.

Peter

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Oh - and it's normally sprayed over Gunze, or Tamiya acrylics - my normal weapons of choice. No issues so far - but again, I only varnish after the paint has gone off for a few days.

 

Iain

All good, I only use Tamiya acrylics.

 

And I only varnish after a couple of days drying time.

 

Can't possibly go wrong!

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Guest Clunkmeister

I see the stuff is made here in the USA, so maybe I give it a go.

Iain, does it smooth and level as well as Future does?

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