Joel_W Posted April 4, 2017 Share Posted April 4, 2017 I've had the problem as well, and I use Gunze and Tamiya almost exclusively. I believe, and this is just my feeling. BTW, that the issue occurs when I'm in a hurry and don't allow enough time for the paint to dry. So with Gunze, I let is sit overnight, and with Tamiya, I allow 2 days. I've never had another problem. I wish there was another simple and affordable option to avoid Future coats, but let's face it, it's cheap, plentiful, sprays perfectly, and gives a perfect surface for decal application. I just learn to accept it's limitations and pray it doesn't bite me at the worst possible time. Ernie, I moved away from an overall gloss coat using Pledge/Future/Kleer or whatever name it goes by in one's country. I've achieved the same or better results from Model Master Glosscoat. I've just tried Tamiya X22 and got great results as well. I've read Chuck's method for using Pledge, and his final coat is the secret; a wet very well thinned out coat, that just smooth's everything out. I've tried it with Glosscoat and it works equally as well. But as you pointed out, the biggest plus that Pledge has is it's cheap price. One bottle will last nearly a life time. I get two aircraft out of one 52ml bottle of Glosscoat. Joel Joel Shaka HI 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain Posted April 4, 2017 Share Posted April 4, 2017 I wish there was another simple and affordable option to avoid Future coats, but let's face it, it's cheap, plentiful, sprays perfectly, and gives a perfect surface for decal application. There is - been using it for years - better than Future/Clea/Klear IMHO - and sprays beautifully. Others' mileage will vary of course Iain Shaka HI and Joel_W 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeanKB Posted April 4, 2017 Share Posted April 4, 2017 There is - been using it for years - better than Future/Clea/Klear IMHO - and sprays beautifully. Others' mileage will vary of course Iain Is that the one you recommended from Lakeland some time ago? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain Posted April 4, 2017 Share Posted April 4, 2017 Yup - that's the one Dean. Like anything - I do leave to dry fully in the airing cupboard overnight before putting anything over the top (usually Xtracrylix Matt Varnish). Iain Shaka HI 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeanKB Posted April 4, 2017 Share Posted April 4, 2017 I shall have to grab a bottle next time I'm in town. It's not cheap, is it? I can always use it to actually clean the floors, as we have wood floors throughout the house. Not very cosy, but practical. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain Posted April 4, 2017 Share Posted April 4, 2017 Around the £10/£11 mark if I recall correctly - current bottle has been on the go for something like 6 years. I think pretty well all the models I've posted here on LSP in that time have used it as a gloss coat for decalling... Iain Shaka HI 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeanKB Posted April 4, 2017 Share Posted April 4, 2017 6 years? That's a lot of models. Do you thin it before spraying? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain Posted April 4, 2017 Share Posted April 4, 2017 Nope - straight from bottle to airbrush Usually apply two - three coats. Touch dries very quickly - but as said - I let it 'cure' overnight in the airing cupboard. Iain Shaka HI 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeanKB Posted April 4, 2017 Share Posted April 4, 2017 I'm definitely going to try that - if it's good enough for Iain, it's certainly gained my approval. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain Posted April 4, 2017 Share Posted April 4, 2017 Erm (hurries to find suitable caveat) - what works for me may not work well for others - don't blame me if it all goes horribly wrong! Was recommended to me by someone on another forum and I like it Bottle still half full! Iain Shaka HI 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain Posted April 4, 2017 Share Posted April 4, 2017 Oh - and it's normally sprayed over Gunze, or Tamiya acrylics - my normal weapons of choice. No issues so far - but again, I only varnish after the paint has gone off for a few days. Iain Shaka HI 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peterpools Posted April 4, 2017 Share Posted April 4, 2017 Shaka Yikes - Terrible news for sure - the P-26 finish was awesome in every respect. I'm as guilty as anyone in rushing and not letting my paint thoroughly dry before applying the clear gloss and then decaling away. Then another gloss coat after decaling and lastly the finished exterior clear coat. I've been lucky and not having any real issues of cracking over the years. With central air and hot air heat, our house always has very low humidity and that's one of the keys: humidity. Humidity is a big factor in drying times and the higher the humidity, the longer the paint or clear coats need to completely dry. Very low humidity is just the opposite and the paint dries so quickly, I always use a retarder to slow down the drying times. I've also never experience any ill effects from shooting one type of paint over another; whether is it enamels, acrylics or lacquers. Once the first layer is completely dry and not just surface dry, any type of paint can be air brushed over and type of paint, always starting with mist coats and slowly build up the layers. Heavy, wet layers can react with the layer of paint you are shooting over and there will be problems down the road. We all tent to flow the gloss clears on and they are thick layers, with loads of solvents and those solvents will begin to eat into the paint layer and that's the start of the problem. Future and clears on top of decals and the problems magnify as the decals will not let the clear gloss coat adhere to the paint under it and the drying time over a decal is longer then over paint. The thicker the clear gloss layer, the more chance there is of cracking as it dries and shrinks over time. I've been a Testors Glosscote user for decades and now have switched to Tamiya X22, thinned with X20A. Bottom line is Future and or Kleer was made for floors and not delicate models. I know it does work and have a numbers of models finished that way. Once the cracking has begun, it's tough to bite the bullet but I really can't see any way of removing the clear coat with out removing the entire finish. Unfortunately, I've had more then my share of experience stripping completely painted models for a number of other reasons. Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeanKB Posted April 4, 2017 Share Posted April 4, 2017 Oh - and it's normally sprayed over Gunze, or Tamiya acrylics - my normal weapons of choice. No issues so far - but again, I only varnish after the paint has gone off for a few days. Iain All good, I only use Tamiya acrylics. And I only varnish after a couple of days drying time. Can't possibly go wrong! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain Posted April 4, 2017 Share Posted April 4, 2017 If you haven't ordered any yet Dean - I can decant some off into a smaller bottle and post over so you can try it first? Iain Shaka HI 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Clunkmeister Posted April 5, 2017 Share Posted April 5, 2017 I see the stuff is made here in the USA, so maybe I give it a go. Iain, does it smooth and level as well as Future does? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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