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Bf109 thread. Hints and tips. Contributions welcome.


mpk

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Hi guys.

 

It seems to me that the Bf109 is one of the all time favourite aeroplane models. As such I thought it may be an idea to have a thread devoted to it. This thread can cover all brands, marks, updates, AM etc etc. A kind of One stop shop, for the 109.

 

For example, I recently learned that the join where the supercharger cooler meets the engine panel on F and later variants, and easily seen on most models, did not exist. (Thanks Jay!) So in order for it to be correct, one must either fill this seam or use an AM update. 

 

20170326_091753_zpsnldhbu9j.jpg

 

As you can see, I am trying to correct this as we speak. I could also use this, but I am trying to learn how to correct it myself so as to save money on AM. This intake will be used on another model.

 

20170326_101255_zps66ugkuqc.jpg

 

Another idea is this; the new revell G10 has many discrepancies. So if one wishes to correct this, what is the best AM set to do this?

 

I've been advised the A.M.U.R. Reaver set is the most correct.

 

20170326_094709_zpsmvmhwh5u.jpg

 

Then there is also the issue with the wing bulges, and the best correction set is by Barracuda. 

 

Then there is the issue with the oil cooler. Which is the better choice, the Barracuda or Quickboost?

 

20170326_094748_zpsn7xxutjc.jpg

 

If one want to purchase a G10, is it simply better to buy the more correct Hasegawa? It may be more expensive, but if one then must buy the AM corrections, perhaps it works out to be cheaper anyway?

 

Another question may be, which is the best spinner correction? Having tried both Quickboost and reaver, I prefer this.

 

20170326_094826_zpsu4od0fqi.jpg

 

Or there maybe a colour question. For example I learned that the cockpit of the E changed from RLM 02 to 66 from the E4. This was news to me. I'd been under the impression the colour change did not occur until the F model.

 

 

The great thing about this site is that many members have much knowledge on this subject. My reason for beginning this thread is ultimately a desire to save time. Perhaps our experts or anyone else may leave their ideas here.

 

Another small tip could be this. If one is using the wonderful Airscale instrument decals on the Cyber Hobby E, it may be better to use the 1/48 artificial horizon due to the 1/32 being slightly too large. The 1/48 fits perfectly. However if one is building the Revell G6, the 1/32 fits correctly.

 

Please feel free to share your knowledge here. Everything is appreciated, from build tips to interesting photographs.

 

(Matin?) ;)

 

I look forward to reading what people have to say. :)

 

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Dale ... I love my 109's ... and providing people can stick with positive attitude a discussion, even discursive in nature ... it should be a good thread!! :D

 

Amur Reaver is definitely the go-to for the Revell G.10 ... probably best to differentiate right of the bat, that it's representing an Erla G.10 and not WNF made G.10 (represented by the Hasegawa kit), so as to avoid confusion.

Indeed ... I like their stuff for the Revell G.6 kit also!! ... Barracuda come in for a very close second.

 

For spinners and props, it seems to me, the gold standard for any kit (providing he does one for any particular variant of an aircraft) are the Henri Danhe items - which are designed off real parts and made to scale, rather than designed as a 'correction' for a particular kit.

I figured if I decided to do a nose job on a future Trumpeter build, I might use one of these as a reference point.

 

Rog :)

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The Dahne sets are best kept as works of art in their own right. Painting and weathering will no doubt detract from, and cover, all that precision and accuracy. (not to mention hiding the hub with a big spinner!)

Edited by Hardcore
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I tend to disagree that anything "needs" to be replaced, but there are certainly widely accepted shortcomings with many (perhaps most) 109 kits, that can benefit from some corrections. For most of my 109 kits, I'm usually content with a more or less OOB appearance, the exceptions being the cockpit and wheels/tires, which I almost always replace, if suitable options are available.

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As noted the Revell kit represents a late Erla G-10 with the large wheels and accompanying wing fairings.  The Erla oil cooler was significantly different as was the cowling for the DB 605D.  It is possible that the unique features of the Erla machines were the result of incorporating Bf 109 H tooling.

 

In any case the Revell kit, in my opinion, is a pretty good starting point.  The spacing of the cowl gun troughs is a couple of mm too close and the oil cooler is not quite right.  The wing fairings are accurate for a late machine, but the G-6 wings were seen in early production machines.  The spinner is basically accurate, but features a novel and somewhat awkward assembly. 

Edited by RBrown
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I tend to disagree that anything "needs" to be replaced, but there are certainly widely accepted shortcomings with many (perhaps most) 109 kits, that can benefit from some corrections. For most of my 109 kits, I'm usually content with a more or less OOB appearance, the exceptions being the cockpit and wheels/tires, which I almost always replace, if suitable options are available.

That is a very good point Kevin.

 

Naturally, to replace parts just because the "replacements" are available is silly, but if you don't feel like drilling-out exhaust stacks, it is always nice to have a little resin time-saver :)

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Dale ... I love my 109's ... and providing people can stick with positive attitude a discussion, even discursive in nature ... it should be a good thread!! :D

 

Amur Reaver is definitely the go-to for the Revell G.10 ... probably best to differentiate right of the bat, that it's representing an Erla G.10 and not WNF made G.10 (represented by the Hasegawa kit), so as to avoid confusion.

Indeed ... I like their stuff for the Revell G.6 kit also!! ... Barracuda come in for a very close second.

 

For spinners and props, it seems to me, the gold standard for any kit (providing he does one for any particular variant of an aircraft) are the Henri Danhe items - which are designed off real parts and made to scale, rather than designed as a 'correction' for a particular kit.

I figured if I decided to do a nose job on a future Trumpeter build, I might use one of these as a reference point.

 

Rog :)

 

Hi Rog.

 

I had no idea mate. See, already I've learned something. :)

 

Henri Danhe eh? Does one look for them under that name???

 

I've decided Sunday is my 109 day. Tomorrow it's back to the Tojo. Today being Sunday, 109's. :D

 

Did you know that M. Haldimann is your best 109-buddy ?

 

http://picssr.com/photos/28092068@N03/interesting/page217?nsid=28092068@N03

 

I did not, no. :)

 

I will be sure to check it out.

 

Thanks mate! Dale. :)

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Hi Rog.

 

I had no idea mate. See, already I've learned something. :)

 

Henri Danhe eh? Does one look for them under that name???

 

 

Available via e-Bay, Dale :) ...

 

He keeps updating various items available ... sells a run ... then it's available again after a while!

 

http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/mkf2341/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=

 

Rog :)

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That is a very good point Kevin.

 

Naturally, to replace parts just because the "replacements" are available is silly, but if you don't feel like drilling-out exhaust stacks, it is always nice to have a little resin time-saver :)

 

They are indeed, and are therefore very worthy of having a few bucks spent on them. If somebody shows that there's a major foul-up with proportions or whatnot, that can make me seek out corrections, depending upon the severity of the problem, but if it's minor (row of fasteners too low), I'll just usually live with it.

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