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Before I remove this detail... A PE question.


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Hi Everyone,

    I have some nice Eduard PE to use on my Roden Albatros.  Much of it will be connected to the cabane, V-struts, and landing gear.  I fear gluing the PE down misaligned, or worse.  I have horror images in my head of causing more damage to finished parts as I try to remove and realign the PE pieces that I have sanded away while trying to get the wings on.

 

    The only thing I can think of doing is to trace each piece with a marker hoping I don't sand away the tracing that surrounds the part.  Or...  leave a tiny bit of the original part to which I will attach the PE.

 

Does anybody have a method I haven't described?

 

Thanks,

 

Gaz

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Yes - don't use the PE

 

Are you sure that the PE represents what is on the actual 'plane you are modelling, and that it represents it better than what is there, and that you will be able to see the difference on the completed aeroplane when viewed at sensible distances?

 

It's easy to assume that the PE is always 'better' than the kit, I'm not convinced. For instance, Eduard make a lovely set of PE for the 1:32 Roden DR.I. If you check it against period photos a lot of it is wrong. It turns out the PE accurately represents one of the current flying DR.I replicas, which is what was used as a reference to design the Eduard parts, not WWI aeroplanes

 

If you don't feel confident using the PE, it isn't compulsory

 

Richard

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Guest Peterpools

Gaz

Richard brings up some very interesting points and I'm as guilty as anyone in normally assuming the PE replacement part is correct and the kit part may not be.

Normally when I need to remove a PE part very carefully and I glued it in place with CCA, I spend some time with CCA Debonder to remove it. Then follow up with additional debonder to remove any left over CCA, with no need for sanding.

Peter

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Normally when I need to remove a PE part very carefully and I glued it in place with CCA, I spend some time with CCA Debonder to remove it. Then follow up with additional debonder to remove any left over CCA, with no need for sanding.

Peter

 

That's really useful. The more I make stuff, the more I learn that I will make misktakes*. The learning then is in how to avoid them, and what to do when they happen. Nice tip there

 

Richard

 

*Yes, I know. The spellchecker highlighted it, it seemed appropriate to leave it  :oops:

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+1 to the previous posts. I rarely use all the PE in a given set, because I pick and choose the most relevant bits.

 

You may try making some small needle pricks in the plastic to mark where the PE goes. They should remain visible after sanding, but should disappear under paint.

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You got a plan now, Gaz?

 

Richard

Hi Richard,

   Simple plan, really.  The PE on the underside of the upper wing I won't use if it attaches to a strut. 

 

I'll probably use most of the PE for the lower wing unless the plastic part looks crisp enough. 

 

For the fuselage I'll go on a part by part basis, trying to avoid removing the detail where the cabane struts attach.  Some of the vents require shaping before attaching to the fuselage.  I've I get all of them right, I'll replace em.  If not...then I'll leave them.

 

There is at least one that crosses the fuselage seem but also joins the landing gear struts.  I'll have to use that one.

 

Gaz

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  • 2 weeks later...

I use gloss clear acrylic lacquer to attach most of my PE parts.  You can buy a spray can of the stuff at most Name Brand Auto parts store like Advanced Auto or Autozone.  There are several ways to use it.  Spray a little into a disposable cup.  Then paint it on the PE part or plastic part with a brush.  You need to be quick, but not CA quick.  Attach the part to the plastic and let cure.  Once hard, it makes a tough bond.  Alternatively, you can spray or brush paint the PE parts with the lacquer and let harden.  Then use a liquid cement to attach the part as you would plastic to plastic.  The acrylic lacquer basically becomes plastic when it dries.  Think of it as painting a layer of plastic onto the metal PE part. 

 

If you make a mistake...  Before the lacquer cures, you can clean it up with alcohol.

 

As with any paint, rough up the contact surface of the PE part with some fine grit sandpaper to give a little bite.

 

I hope this helps amigo!  Happy modeling!

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I use gloss clear acrylic lacquer to attach most of my PE parts.  You can buy a spray can of the stuff at most Name Brand Auto parts store like Advanced Auto or Autozone.  There are several ways to use it.  Spray a little into a disposable cup.  Then paint it on the PE part or plastic part with a brush.  You need to be quick, but not CA quick.  Attach the part to the plastic and let cure.  Once hard, it makes a tough bond.  Alternatively, you can spray or brush paint the PE parts with the lacquer and let harden.  Then use a liquid cement to attach the part as you would plastic to plastic.  The acrylic lacquer basically becomes plastic when it dries.  Think of it as painting a layer of plastic onto the metal PE part. 

 

If you make a mistake...  Before the lacquer cures, you can clean it up with alcohol.

 

As with any paint, rough up the contact surface of the PE part with some fine grit sandpaper to give a little bite.

 

I hope this helps amigo!  Happy modeling!

I like this idea!

 

Gaz

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If you don't want to decant the spray stuff, I, umm.... *borrowed* a bottle of my girlfriend's clear nail polish (laquer). It works a treat on PE. Gives you some time for re-positioning, dries clear and mostly flattens out. If you leave the cap off for a bit, the stuff gels up. As a bonus, it comes in many, many colors, so if you're doing a pit, you can find a nail polish that's pretty darned close to RLM66 or Interior Green, or what have you, and your "glue" won't show up even if you glue after paint. They also make a UV curing gel, which I haven't tried yet, but it sounds promising. Of course, this requires you to peruse the beauty aisle at some store and you will get some looks.

 

The only thing it's not good for is if your PE part has any force on it while drying. There's not much initial tack, just surface tension holding the part in place.

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Also,

I have found that MicroScale "foil glue" works very well on PE. You can brush it on both the plastic the PE goes on, and the PE itself, then let it dry completely. Once ready, you can stick the PE on, and with both sides coated it usually sticks very well. Adhesion to the PE is good with the MS foil glue I found. 

 

I have noted that it works better the more surface area you have however.  

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Wow!  Three awesome suggestions!  I have a bottle of clear nail polish I bought for models, but never used...  I'll have to find it. 

 

I'll be honest.  I hate CA.  I can never get enough adhesion from a tiny amount as recommended.  I hate that it doesn't like to stick to it's dried form.  I hate that it's shear strength is so low.  Just in the time it took to mask the Mercedes D. III, I managed to knock off three pieces. 

 

I know I'm a klutz and inexperienced...

 

Gaz

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If you don't want to decant the spray stuff, I, umm.... *borrowed* a bottle of my girlfriend's clear nail polish (laquer).

 

Next time you are buying nail polish for your 'girlfriend' (hem hem), get a nail buffer. Excellent for sanding and polishing plastic

 

Richard

 

Are my seams straight?

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