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F-7U-3M Cutlass Monday 11/24

Fisher Pattern RESIN KIT Foil

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#16 marauderdriver

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Posted 08 November 2014 - 05:21 AM

Hold on to y'alls  Horses!!!

 

  First pics  figured to shim the  "wing spar" into the top half of the fuselage, so I could add the wings later.

 

  Having to do some shimming and seeing where the best place to start gluing the 2 halves together.

 

 Also added a spreader in the lower half and may need another one closer to the wing mount.

 

 The flat piece that is shimmed in is the "Wing spar" that they want you to glue the wings to

 

then mount in the upper fuselage all the while keeping the wings level.  You will have a rather large gap

 

all the way around the join unless you can work it in small stretches.IMG_2515.jpgIMG_2514.jpgIMG_2518.jpgIMG_2519.jpg


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#17 EmperorKai

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Posted 08 November 2014 - 06:25 AM

wow- yep, looks like that one will take a bit of work.  How much of that will the wing hide?

 

Kai


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CED72089%20clean%20mod%20sig_zpskkmwui1l

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#18 LSP_Paul

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Posted 08 November 2014 - 06:48 AM

Jack, I cant believe you're not farther along already... clearly you need to buckle down and get some progress made mister!  :rofl:

 Coming along fine my friend, now just keep working it out before committing to glue and all will go well. :) 

Oh and don't listen to all the voices in your head bro... you'll end up in a tank top and flip flops in the street on COPS  :whistle:

 

 All the best,

 Paul 


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#19 marauderdriver

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Posted 08 November 2014 - 06:50 AM

IMG_2527.jpgIMG_2526.jpgThis This why they call you EMPEROR !

 

 You picked that up before I did, but the pics will answer the question, I would have seen it sooner or LATER :rofl:  :rofl: :rofl:  

 

Thanks

 

jack


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#20 harvey

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Posted 08 November 2014 - 08:03 AM

Well I know for a fact, with your talent, you'll have it hammered out shortly buddy !..........Harv  :popcorn:


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#21 EmperorKai

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Posted 08 November 2014 - 08:34 AM

lol  :yahoo:   I agree with Harvey!

 

Kai


CED72089%20clean%20mod%20sig_zpskkmwui1l

On the bench: F4D-1 Skyray  |   A-10 NAW  |  Egyptian Mig-19S  |  Boeing P-26A Peashooter  |  Bristol Beaufighter Mk X TFX

In the case:  IL-2 Sturmovik  |  F-8E Crusader  |  Yak-18


#22 Loic

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Posted 08 November 2014 - 08:51 AM

:popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:


Cheers!________________________________________________________________________________________________________
In the work :   Dornier Do 335   /   A-1H/J Skyraider   /   Mirage F1 (Scratchbuild)  /  Mirage IIIC

Completed builds :   Hawker Tempest (kitbash)   /   Nakajima B5N Kate (Scratchbuild)   /   Spitfire Mk I

Master pattern work:   DB-603 Engine    /   F4U-1 Corsair engine bay 


#23 marauderdriver

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Posted 09 November 2014 - 04:56 PM

Thanks  Paul, Harv, Kai, Loic,

 

  I hope I'm not screwing up, I made a snake of Milliput all the way around the the fuselage seam and squished them together.

 

   This was yesterday,  After I did it I went for lunch and got into the Texas A&M- Auburn game when it seemed the Aggies came to play.

 

   Yea! I Know   "You Got Lucky"     and I say  "I'd Rather Be Lucky Then Good" :punk:  :punk: :punk:  

 

  If you recall I had a Not so good experience with MilliPut  Not hardening,  thought I'd give it another go!

 

 Sand soon!

 

 jackIMG_2535.jpgIMG_2543.jpgIMG_2541.jpg


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#24 Peterpools

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Posted 09 November 2014 - 05:04 PM

Jack

Nice progress on the Cutlass and nothing like having a good POA. On the Sea Fury, I used CCA for the larger gaps and the smaller ones, Milliput. I'm becoming a big fan of the Fine White Milliput and found that after I apply it, I carefully wipe it down with a damp Q-Tip, until it's smooth and even with the tops of surfaces. Most of the time, I have zero sanding and polishing to do ... just a great time saver and a super product.

Keep 'em coming

Peter


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#25 marauderdriver

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Posted 10 November 2014 - 07:33 PM

Ok  Starting day 3 and still waiting for the Milliput  harden all the way thru.

 

Still checking things over for the PLAN and after much research and picture checking, I have come to the

 

conclusion that I'm going to have the Leading Edge Slats open with the gear up.......flying SSLLOOWW!

 

Found 1 picture in this condition and it is the first F-7U-3M with a nose boom and red trim with white borders

 

on the nose and intake fronts with 4 Sparrow I missiles.

 

I do not want to  CUT-UP this kit and it would be more surgery then I want to do.

 

I'll be checking the gear doors here soon to see how that is going to work

 

Nothing new for picks to show

 

Jack


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#26 alain11

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Posted 10 November 2014 - 09:52 PM

Hi 

 

you are again struggling with this damned putty that takes a loooog time to dry deeply ...well as Paul said , CA glue !!!!!!!!!!! , with a drop of accelerator ...........you will save time . I am amazed by such abyssal gap one a Fischer's kit  :hmmm:


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#27 Peterpools

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Posted 10 November 2014 - 11:22 PM

Jack

I've been using a lot of Milliput and CCA for my recent builds. Milliput dries rock hard in 24 hours. and I hate to be the barer of bad news, but if it hasn't already dried rock hard, most likely it won't. I've had this problem once before and found it was my mix of parts A&B. What I now do and it works 100% of the time, I cut a small amount from each tube and before doing anything else, I re-seal both tubes and back in the box they go. Then I roll each out into a string, the same thickness and cut the same length of A &B. Combine both together and then start rolling out a new ribbon. The key is equal amounts of both A&B and combining them completely together. Now apply, smooth out with a damp Q-Tip and let dry. Leave the un-used portion of the ribbon on your work bench as a control and it will harden in less then 24 hours and the filler on the model will be equally as hard.

Peter


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#28 Lee White

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Posted 11 November 2014 - 12:15 AM

That's why i have given up on Milliput. Now, it's Apoxie sculpt only for me.... Mix well, and it WILL dry, and it doesn't get crusty. best stuff ever, and non-toxic.


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#29 marauderdriver

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Posted 11 November 2014 - 01:22 AM

Hi 

 

you are again struggling with this damned putty that takes a loooog time to dry deeply ...well as Paul said , CA glue !!!!!!!!!!! , with a drop of accelerator ...........you will save time . I am amazed by such abyssal gap one a Fischer's kit  :hmmm:

Hi Alain,

               I think I have the putty problem under control, because of the size of the putty snake in the large gap I find the milliput needs a longer time to cure

 

              If you expose the inside to air it seems to harden more, kinda like Tamiya putty which is why you layer it.

 

              Good thing about it taking so long is that I was able to Plan more on the sequence I will put parts together.

 

               I can see why there is this size gap, but it is not that bad really, and other parts seem to fit OK,

 

                Thanks

 

      Jack

 

Jack

I've been using a lot of Milliput and CCA for my recent builds. Milliput dries rock hard in 24 hours. and I hate to be the barer of bad news, but if it hasn't already dried rock hard, most likely it won't. I've had this problem once before and found it was my mix of parts A&B. What I now do and it works 100% of the time, I cut a small amount from each tube and before doing anything else, I re-seal both tubes and back in the box they go. Then I roll each out into a string, the same thickness and cut the same length of A &B. Combine both together and then start rolling out a new ribbon. The key is equal amounts of both A&B and combining them completely together. Now apply, smooth out with a damp Q-Tip and let dry. Leave the un-used portion of the ribbon on your work bench as a control and it will harden in less then 24 hours and the filler on the model will be equally as hard.

Peter

I understand the mix and did this the same as you describe, but what I have found is after I let it set overnight and sand it down it is still soft in the center.

 

I left the sanded areas alone til this morning and they are hardened.  I discovered that when I pulled the Milliput out of the spine on my F-105, that the next day it was hard,

 

I sand and let it set overnight and it seems to be working.  I also made a control and when I dug into it is was softer but by the next day it hardened.  Gave me a plan and

 

will continue to experiment.

 

 Always learning something.

 

jack


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#30 marauderdriver

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Posted 11 November 2014 - 01:27 AM

When I was posting the problem I was encountering, I thought of you Lee,

 

  I remember you saying you stopped using  Milliput and recommended  Apoxie Sculpt.

 

 I don't want to waste a whole package of Milliput if I can figure out how to use it up.

 

 Thanks Again Lee

 

jack


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