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Aeroclub 1/32 Pitts Special Vacuform


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#16 JimRice

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Posted 10 January 2007 - 04:52 AM

I continue to make progress, but nothing really noticeable in a photo.

I filled the lower side of the horizontal stabilizers/elevators and the landing gear legs. I had to add .015 half round strips to the lower side of tail to simulate rib pattern..........being vacuform, it is only replicated on the top. After filling and getting smooth surface, I added the strip and then sanded 95% of it away. It is really fine and should very closely replicate the true tail surfaces. I did find the two sides were not symetrical so I had to do some quick sanding to fix that. Both sides are now installed.

I have the landing gear legs attached and V strut installed also. Wings are finished and fitted. I am actually getting very close to having nothing left to do but start to paint!!!! Of course, the top wing and wheels/wheel pants will not be added until after painting is complete.

I did vacuform a new canopy (another first for me). I used clay and formed the mold using the kit canopy. I eliminated the framing between the canopy and the windshield as I only need the windshield and it is shaped differently than the kit windshield/canopy due to the frame. I need the rear edge of the frame to be vertical and the kit windshield is angled.....anyway, after baking at 265 for 30 minutes, I trimmed the base and was ready to vacuform a new canopy, without the framing. It formed well, but the inside of the new canopy was rough........looks like I somehow ended up with a fingerprint in the mold which transfered to the plastic while warm. I have since Futured the mold to hopefully smooth it out and cover the finger print. I know I could use plaster of paris, but the clay was much less messy and faster........of course, I have finger print in it too. At least I had the clay on hand. I didn't have any plaster.

I will paint the entire plane white to begin with and then will begin the very tedious job of masking, painting, more masking, more painting, etc, etc.

I hope to have some new photos soon.

Regards,

#17 jimbo

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Posted 10 January 2007 - 05:57 PM

Hey Jim;

Awesome build, man, this is really cool. I've never had the guts to do a vac myself; good for you for conquering that 20+ year-old mountain. You have already answered the one question I had, which was, would you leave the top wing off to do the complicated paint job. I hope you get your airbrushes up and running soon; this one will be a treat to see in finished form.

Brad, thanks for the link to that video, that is really cool! I love the guys flight uniform: overalls and a T-shirt :blink:

Great stuff all 'round.

Jimbo

Recently completed: Hobbycraft/Trumpeter F4F-4 Wildcat

In progress: Trumpeter Mig-3

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#18 Old Dog Flying

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Posted 10 January 2007 - 07:45 PM

Dave Pratt: The Pitts acro team later became the Ray-Ban Golds and the team lead still has his aircraft at Langley and both he and his son still fly it with all of the logos in place. I have a model of George's Pitts on my website under Airshowmodels

Barney http://www.barneysairforce.com

#19 JimRice

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Posted 13 January 2007 - 07:29 AM

Construction has proceeded to the point I am ready to begin my paint job. I primed the top wing with Mr Surfacer 1200 this evening and sanded with 1200 grit sandpaper. I discovered a couple of really minor flaws which I touched with Mr Surfacer 1000. I'll hit the touch-ups and final sand prior to application of base white color.

I thought I had my colors picked out.....not an easy choice as I am NOT used to picking out gloss, non-military colors!!! The white will be Insignia White FS17875. I accidentally picked up the MM 28001 Custom Lacquer System Red for the red......big boo boo. Having looked over the archives and reviewing much sage advice over several threads, I realize I can't use the CLS over the white enamel base. What MM (or other gloss red) is a good bright red match for the photos below? I understand photo renderings, monitor adjustment and all. Given those limitations, what RED enamel should I shoot? I am unfamiliar with non-military MM paints. The Hobby Lobby here in town has a VERY limited (and getting less and less it seems) selection of paints now. I didn't see any good reds other than Acrylic, which I've never used and I don't want to start with this particular kit.

I assume shooting the enamel (I thin with lacquer thinner) over the Mr Surfacer is no problem, is it?

I've honestly beeng playing with this, my first vac kit, for over 20 years. I am pretty happy with the construction. I REALLY don't want to pooch it on the paint job. All input appreciated[i][u].

I am going to start with the top wing and spray base white tomorrow. I hope to shoot the red on Monday. I won't shoot anything else, other than primer, until the top wing is finished. It is the easiest to fix if I good up the process.

I can't believe this thing might actually be finished this year. Next.....get that 1/32 Globe Swift vac and start knocking it out. :D

#20 D Bellis

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Posted 13 January 2007 - 01:36 PM

What MM (or other gloss red) is a good bright red match for the photos below? I understand photo renderings, monitor adjustment and all. Given those limitations, what RED enamel should I shoot?


Jim,
Testors' #1103 Gloss Red in the small bottle would work very nicely. A light, primer coat of Testors' #1150 Flat Red (also in the small bottle) will enable you to spray the Gloss Red on in an extremely thin, yet very shiney coat.

HTH,
D

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#21 Old Dog Flying

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Posted 13 January 2007 - 06:05 PM

Jim: Try looking at Model Master Guards Red. I used it on my S2B and it is quite bright!...And being enamel, you'll have no problem overcoating the White.

Barney http://www.barneysairforce.com

#22 JimRice

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Posted 13 January 2007 - 07:17 PM

Jim: Try looking at Model Master Guards Red. I used it on my S2B and it is quite bright!...And being enamel, you'll have no problem overcoating the White.

Barney http://www.barneysairforce.com


Barney,

Great minds think alike.....I just returned from the local hobby store (30 minutes one-way!! and $30 lighter in the wallet) and Guards Reds was one of my purchases. I bought Italian Red also, but I really think it will be too bright.

I also bought several "must haves"

-New bottle of Ambroids
-Mr Surfacer 500
-New bottle of Krystal Clear (old lid shattered and it dried out)
-Replacement Flexifiles strips
-Pack of Superfine Microbrushes

Funny how one little bottle of paint spurred so much more. B) I bought the Ambroid despite having just opened a new bottle. I also heard there my be problems getting it. Squadron has backordered the Mr Surfacer 500 on me and since the local guy now stocks it, I grabbed it. My old bottle of Krystal Kleer was about 90 full, but the lid shattered due to age and the stuff got real thick. The flexifiles.....well, I am always using them and the microbrushes......just because. Maybe they will come in handy.

Well, I am headed out to the bench to try and get some work done. I have three long term projects I am closing in on completion.....the Pitts, Hasegawa F4B-4 and Monogram AT-6D.

Regards,

Jim

#23 JimRice

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Posted 21 January 2007 - 06:31 AM

Well, my Pitts is now overall gloss white. It turned out pretty well considering I am a poor painter. The wheelpants I painted Italian Red to test the color. I'll try to post some photos soon.

I just shot the white today, so it will be likely be next weekend before I think about shooting any red paint. I am considering getting some red decal sheet rather than trying to paint the red stripes. I tried shooting the red on top wing after it cured for a week. The white seemed well cured, but the red still tended to lift it. I ended up stripping the top wing, sanding and repainting the white when I shot the fuselage. Part of that may be my shooting enamel thinned with lacquer thinner. I may have to stick with regular thinner or Testor airbrush thinner for the reds.

Any suggestions for best method of painting all the sunbursts? I am thinking I will only paint a couple at a time........it will take several weeks, but will give best results with least masking difficulties. Patience will be my biggest enemy here. I always try to rush my paint jobs and end up putting on too much paint too fast..........the result is always bleeding under the masks and a heavy ridge.

As for the color, I am shot the Italian Red onto one half a primed 3"x2" styrene sheet. Tomorrow I will shoot the other half with Guards Red and decide which one I am going to end up using...........

Any good masking tips out there? I tried Post-It Notes.....I like the straight edge, but they allowed bleeding.

Thoughts? Suggestions? I'm just NOT a good painter.

Regards
,


#24 Old Dog Flying

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Posted 21 January 2007 - 04:40 PM

Jim: For masking, try Tamiya masking tape. It is very thin and does not allow the paint to bleed under. For extra protection, I would mask off the areas then shoot a coat of white , allow it to dry then shoot the red. The white will seal the edges.

If you can't be bothered with all that tape...like me...use red decal film. I've done this quite a few times but I always use a new #11 scalpel blade. I use Blue painters tape for a pattern then use a straight-edge..steel...and cut out the decal. Works very well.

Barney

#25 JimRice

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Posted 02 February 2007 - 11:45 PM

Well, pardon the pun, but my poor old Pitts S-1C has stalled..............

I have it finished through white. My first attempt at painting the red sunburst didn't go well. I ended up sanding the top wing down and reshooting the white. Masking it to my satisfaction has been a real challenge. I finally made up a masking template to use for guiding me. I also printed it onto frisket paper and have allowed it to dry for a week in the hopes it will not smear when I attempt to cut it.

Simply getting the placement correct on the top wing has been a real difficult time. I hope I can make some progress on it this weekend.

I have finally decided upon the final red.......Guard Red (thanks Barney) is the right color. After shooting a 2"x3" styrene sheet (after priming/sanding) with 1/2 Italian red and 1/2 Guard, I found the Italian was too bright/orange.

More to follow.........I hope!!!!

Regards from snowy Tennessee.

Jim

#26 JimRice

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Posted 13 February 2007 - 02:49 AM

Here is the latest on ye ole Aeroclub 1/32 Pitts S-1D converted to S-1D. I am on my 3d attempt at painting the sunburst on the top wing. In order to feel that I am making SOME progress, I decided to paint the red on the fuselage, wheel pants and I struts. In other words, the easy part of the paint job.

Aside from the complexity of the scheme, this is ALL GLOSS which is definitely less forgiving of any imperfections. Well she ain't great, but here's where I stand as of this evening.

The F4B-4 is the 1/32 offering I am working on concurrently with the Pitts. It has only been in the works for about 4 years, unlike the Pitts which has been ongoing for over 23 years!!!

I guess now I don't have anything BUT the striping to work on. I think I will work on the red on the lower wings and tail before I tackle the upper wing again.........I still have to final sand and shoot another coat of white on the upper before I can shoot any red on it anyway :blink:

Forgive the odd crops on the photos. I was trying to get detail by reducing extraneous portions of the photos.
Pitts_4A.jpg

#27 JimRice

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Posted 13 February 2007 - 02:53 AM

Pitts_5A.jpg

#28 JimRice

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Posted 13 February 2007 - 02:55 AM

Pitts_6A.jpg

#29 JimRice

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Posted 13 February 2007 - 02:57 AM

Pitts_7A.jpg

#30 bcauchi

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Posted 13 February 2007 - 07:38 AM

Pitts is looking really good. What an amazingly small plane that is. Good luck with the rest of the painting.




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