Cheetah11 Posted April 17, 2017 Share Posted April 17, 2017 Hi Eric A great fix on the tank and a very nice pylon. I see you have removed the fuses on the bombs. What fuses are you going to use, live or practice fuses? Looking at the era of the aircraft, live fuses most likely had external fusing wires. Regards Cheetah11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted April 17, 2017 Share Posted April 17, 2017 Great work as always, Eric! Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peterpools Posted April 17, 2017 Share Posted April 17, 2017 Eric Amazing work as always. Keep 'em coming Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericg Posted April 21, 2017 Author Share Posted April 21, 2017 Hi Eric A great fix on the tank and a very nice pylon. I see you have removed the fuses on the bombs. What fuses are you going to use, live or practice fuses? Looking at the era of the aircraft, live fuses most likely had external fusing wires. Regards Cheetah11 Hi Cheetah, I haven't installed the fuses yet, but they will be the short, live versions. I finally got my hands on a set of High planes models No.2 OCU decals. I sat down for a decaling session, placing my trust in the nicely packaged decals. The decals seemed to be reasonably old and required care to peel off the protective paper which had become stuck to the decals themselves. Despite this, I decided to start with one of the smaller fin flashes, which would give me a good idea of how the decals would perform. I was immediately disappointed in them, as can be seen in the photo below. The red was way out of register, and there was a dark line around the blue. After all of the work that had gone into the model, there was no way these were going to make an appearance on the finished product. I initially looked at using the fin flashes from the kit but these were straight rather than slanted, so a solution was going to have to be thought of, and fast! A few minutes later and I had designed and cut a paint mask (I have said it many times before, If you don't have a Silhouette Portrait mask cutter, you really need one!) . With the center stripe painted with Tamiya White fine surface primer, I covered it up and then sprayed the blue, along with spraying the front stripe with Tamiya Pink fine surface primer (this allows less paint to be used to get red) I then sprayed the front stripe with Gunze Red Madder to give the final colours. The benefit of using Oramask 810 can be seen by its clear nature and ease of positioning due to being able to see underlying panel lines etc for orientation. Unmasked. Looks much better. With the 2 OCU markings applied. These decals were a bit better, although required lots of soaking to remove them from their backing and are a little inaccurate. I used Ventura decals for the serials. Whitey, HerculesPA_2, Hubert Boillot and 3 others 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert Boillot Posted April 21, 2017 Share Posted April 21, 2017 Much better than the off-register decals, but, although it may be only a parallax-induced false impression, the white band looks larger than the blue and red ones (which is impossible considering the mask picture, btw) Hubert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaninaustria Posted April 21, 2017 Share Posted April 21, 2017 Damn Eric! Really nice work as always! Cheers Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimW Posted April 21, 2017 Share Posted April 21, 2017 That is some outstanding work. Amazing! alaninaustria 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericg Posted April 21, 2017 Author Share Posted April 21, 2017 Thanks a lot guys. Much better than the off-register decals, but, although it may be only a parallax-induced false impression, the white band looks larger than the blue and red ones (which is impossible considering the mask picture, btw) Hubert Hi Hubert. I had a closer look at the white band. I am putting it down to the fact that it is brighter so it looks wider. Cheers, Eric. Hubert Boillot 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClumsyDude Posted April 21, 2017 Share Posted April 21, 2017 (edited) Mate, looks super ... once you start with the masks it's hard to go back, there's a level of "truth" that you get with masks that can't be beat. I'm having fits with my hornet tail markings right now but wouldn't have it any other way. Dunno how you'd do those 2OCU markings with masks but I bet it could be done ... Jim Edited April 21, 2017 by ClumsyDude Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericg Posted April 22, 2017 Author Share Posted April 22, 2017 Mate, looks super ... once you start with the masks it's hard to go back, there's a level of "truth" that you get with masks that can't be beat. I'm having fits with my hornet tail markings right now but wouldn't have it any other way. Dunno how you'd do those 2OCU markings with masks but I bet it could be done ... Jim I was considering it and I probably should have as I was thinking about cutting out just the Tiger head and masking the rest. I next ran into the problem of the roundels. The kit has the correct ones for the intakes but the older style roundels for the underwing. The HPM decals featured the dark outline on the blue circles as per the fin flash, so were unsuitable and the underwing roundels were way overscale and also not suitable for the model. I decided to mask and paint them and am quite happy with the result. Here is a pic of the mask set that I made up for the kit, 4 roundels, fin flash, wheel masks and some circles to cover the roo once painted to prevent overspray when applying the blue portion of the roundels. If you have a Mask cutter and would like this file then please email me and I will send it to you `on the house' The painted roundels look really good and I am still pretty chuffed that I can produce these on demand at home. Getting there! KiwiZac, Hubert Boillot, Shaka HI and 5 others 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericg Posted April 25, 2017 Author Share Posted April 25, 2017 It was time to paint an RPK-10. I had finished the construction of one tank and couldn't help myself. I needed to see my creation under a coat of paint! I primed it and checked for flaws with Tamiya fine surfacer primer, before giving it a coat of Mr Surfacer black 1000. I then painted the nose with aluminium before giving the silver part a coat of AK worn effects fluid. I then mottled on a coat of base colour A couple of thin coats of the base colour I then applied the top surface cam colour and assembled the tank with the bombs. I am yet to weather the tank. On the model, they look pretty good. 2/3rds done with the underwing stuff. Harold, blackbetty, Victor K2 and 3 others 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaninaustria Posted April 25, 2017 Share Posted April 25, 2017 Man, Eric!! Outstanding stuff mate!! I have to admit that is the first time I have ever seen bombs loaded up on an external fuel tank before! Man, can you imagine what kind of fireworks that would be if an incendiary round hit that fuel tank!! Unique solution to store ordanance!! Your skills push the known boundary of 1/32 scale detailing!! Cheers Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClumsyDude Posted April 25, 2017 Share Posted April 25, 2017 This is seriously good stuff ... love the masks and the tanks. Great work. Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NavyF4s Posted April 26, 2017 Share Posted April 26, 2017 Pretty good. So modest, it looks fantastic! Great job! Anthony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonH Posted April 26, 2017 Share Posted April 26, 2017 Boy, that looks good. I always think that painted markings look better than decals and you have done a great job. Very jealous of your mask making facilities! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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