LSP_Matt Posted February 23, 2006 Share Posted February 23, 2006 G14 kit no 2 is going to be the summer Camo of Hartman. This one is equipped with a 30mm cannon so more tweaking going on. Instrument panel...mods incl: Drilling out all centre of dials with dental burs ( see Jays Stuka for good photos) Filling centre of dials with fissure sealant ( out of date dental material)...thin viscosity, sets in sunlight MDC and kit instrument decals punched, cut out...Mr Mark softener 3m adhesive resin ( clear) over the dials as instrument glass Red lever with brass sheet, wire Evergreen stock for coolant tap Plate and support for Revi gunsight mount. Apologies for the average macro on the digi camera...its only a cheapy one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Matt Posted March 1, 2006 Author Share Posted March 1, 2006 Here's a photo of the same using my mates camera... can see some of my mistakes but it was a bit of an experiment Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Matt Posted March 1, 2006 Author Share Posted March 1, 2006 Pit not finished. Its all futured to help washes. The plan is to spray some shaeds of grey and texture the straps etc. PE seatbelts to go on. The main thing was to show you guys the 30mm Mk108 Cannon cover correction nice and clearly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Matt Posted March 1, 2006 Author Share Posted March 1, 2006 Finalising the RHS of the pit. Scratched lots of things here. A few red taps to go on near the oxygen gauges, as well as an oxygen tube once I've cast it. Also need to add the clear part of the fuel flow tube and tidy up where I had to chisel away some CA that overflowed/pooled Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Matt Posted March 1, 2006 Author Share Posted March 1, 2006 Port side. Need to finish my drybrushing and shading but otherwise alomost done. I posted there becasue its not often I have access to such a great camera. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bcauchi Posted March 1, 2006 Share Posted March 1, 2006 Nice work there. When you drybrush, wipe off the brush more. You can see some of the brush marks on the seat where you still had a lot of paint on the brush. Nothing you cannot fix. Otherwise very nice indeed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Matt Posted March 2, 2006 Author Share Posted March 2, 2006 thanks Brian, Yeah I recall doing it and being a bit disappointed at my effort there. Its a skill I have to get the knack of more. Chris Hannover has got it down to a fine art...I used a silver pencil as well and it left little flakes all over. I also tried some inks for a wash but think I prefer the flow of the oils...they seem to have less surface tension and flow/not pool as much ( might experiment with some detergent for the inks) Always appreciate your tips and replies mate Cheers Matty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bcauchi Posted March 2, 2006 Share Posted March 2, 2006 When you drybrush, you cannot rush. you need to build up the effect slowly. Wipe the bbrush off well so that minimum amount of paint is left and the first couple of passes produce no effect. Then gradually build it up. I would not have used silver straight away on the cockpit. first use a lighter shade of the colour you are using and drybrush. Keep on adding white and drybrush again to build up a lightening and highlighting of the detail. When you are satisfied, stop and just go once over it with silver just to get an effect at extreme edges. A pencil is ok for chipping but too bold for drybrushing. Hope this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Matt Posted March 2, 2006 Author Share Posted March 2, 2006 I'll give it a go tonight. I corrected the dodgy bits today so its all ready to go for some drybrushing thanks Brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Matt Posted March 2, 2006 Author Share Posted March 2, 2006 thanks mate Yeah...scratched as in...cast in acrylic using the cowl scoop technique. ( I had tried but it was doing my head in). I'll send you up some cannon covers with the other stuff once its all done. To be honest I only saw the decals had shifted once the ubercamera had taken the shot. I think it was due to the Mr Mark Softener I used on the decals...it wrinkled them up and I didn't see it until it was dry...its reasonably hard to tell via the Mk1 eyeball. I'll be more careful on Hartman No 3. The composite resin is fine to use. I was happy with the 3m Adhesive as glass, though as you found...when these type of materials are partially cured they are greasy...hence the fingerprint splodge. DOH!. I thought about varnishes but we had a big discussion in Chris's Spitfire Mk2 thread. Basically they all seem to yellow over time though at different rates...the 3M adhesive tends not to do that ( hence why I use it when placing tooth coloured restorations on your front teeth...no good them being yellow... Finalizing pit tonight... Cheers mate Matty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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