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liquid putty?


richdlc

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Maybe someone can answer this - is there such a thing as liquid filler / putty? There are certain gaps that I want to use filler on, but they are difficult to reach...and I don't want to keep using expensive zap-a-gap ca glue

 

can you thin squadron white or green stuff down with acetone without creating a toxic gas cloud or melting your workbench?

 

TIA

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Gunze makes a putty called Mr Disolved Putty. It's comes in a jar and you apply it with a brush. From the smell and consistency, I would say it is very similar to what you are looking for by thinning Squadron putty. It does shrink quite a bit though when dry which means you would need multiple coats.

 

Gunze also has a thicker version of their Mr Surfacer in a 500. I've been using that recently, especially now that I found out Tamiya lacquer thinner can clean up the excess without harming the kit plastic. Saves on sanding and lost details.

 

Hope that helps,

 

Carl

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Guest Ta152H1

Gunze makes a putty called Mr Disolved Putty. It's comes in a jar and you apply it with a brush. From the smell and consistency, I would say it is very similar to what you are looking for by thinning Squadron putty. It does shrink quite a bit though when dry which means you would need multiple coats.

 

Gunze also has a thicker version of their Mr Surfacer in a 500. I've been using that recently, especially now that I found out Tamiya lacquer thinner can clean up the excess without harming the kit plastic. Saves on sanding and lost details.

 

Hope that helps,

 

Carl

 

Wot he sed....Mr. Dissolved Putty-san is one of the best inventions after sliced bread....I couldn't do without it now that I've been using it for the past three years and I've seldom encountered serious shrinkage!

HTH

Lou

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To answer one part of your question, yes, most hobby putties can be thinned. I use liquid cement for this. You can mix it as thin or thick as your heart desires, then apply with a brush. Mister surfacer is also great, as excess can be wiped away with a denatured alcohol swab. As for the Gunze product, I just used some last night to build up the almost non-existent leather coaming around the back of a little D.VII cockpit opening,... works like a charm.

 

070712013.jpg

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Just be aware that Mr Dissolved Putty does indeed shrink, and will go quite 'stiff' in the jar over time if you don't use it very often. A little bit of Mr Color Thinner (I'm sure the Tamiya equivalent would work just as well) will loosen it up for a while, but it definitely looses its 'liquid' qualities over time (though I am talking years here, not months). I actually don't use it that much anymore, finding Mr Surfacer superior for most applications, or if I'm in a hurry, the good old CA/talc mix (but this requires sanding, vs the 'no sand' methods available for the other products).

 

Kev

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Another property of the GSI Creos (Gunze) fillers is that you can remove of exess even when dry by rubbing using alcohol (isoproply) or Mr Color Thinners so no need to sand and no loss of detail.

As UK distributor for GSI I give demonstrations all over the UK and keep surprising people that the hardened liquid filler can be removed with a tissue and a dab of alcohol.

 

Bob

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Get some of this stuff from Sprue Bros. It is a fairly thick liquid that can be applied in tight spots if needed. Works for me.

001-2.jpg

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Guest Dekenba

Mr surfacer in 500 & 1000 form, when used with mr Colour thinners, is marvellous stuff.

 

Can even be shot through an airbrush.

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You don't need expensive superglue for gap filling. I just get the cheapie 'home brand' super glue from the supermarket, works so well I've only used traditional putty once in the last decade.

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Zapa gap works ok, but try mixing it with some MicroBalloons, and youve got a lighter MUCH easier to sand filler that wont crack under a re-scribe.

 

Ive also had really good luck using liquid cement on sprue strips, as well as using liquid sprue melted in turps.

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Has anyone ever used scrap plastic model parts disolved in Tamiya thin cement?

 

There was a post on here some time ago about droppping scrap plasticmodel parts into a 25% full jar of Tamiya thin cement - I believe the guy called it "GLOOP"

Well I tried that & its the best filler I've ever had, I love it.

It can get a bit stringy when its been stored a while, but I just put a few more drops of thin cement into it & hey presto, its fine to use again, on big & small gaps.

 

It flows into the smallest gap, in awkward places & even sands down just like the rest of model when dry & to me, produces a better medium for re-scribing than traditional fillers.

Just a thought................

 

Happy modelling, Martin

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Yeah Martin, this is a very old-school technique that we shouldn't forget about. The thread on here (which I'll dig up a bit later) was about experimenting with the type of medium you use to melt the styrene into, as liquid cements are rather expensive to use this way. From what I remember, we determined that lacquer thinners didn't work as well as expect, but turpentine was quite effective (though slower). I'd say for small amounts, the liquid cement is still the way to go.

 

Kev

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Thx for digging that out Kev & thx to Cat_baloo for the original post.

I use the last of the cement in the bottle that the Tamiya brush cant reach rather than pouring it into the new bottle to keep costs down & it really is a case of a little goes a long way.

I keep mine to a fairly thin consistency so I can control where it goes better though.

I've never tried any of the other "melting" mediums, only the Tamiya thin cement.

Try it Rich, it really does work...........but practise on a an old kit untill you get the hang of getting it to go where you want it to.

All the best, Martin

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