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MiG-29A missile and reference questions


ladder4boy

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Andy.. give me a month or two to get all my ducks rowed up and i'll race ya with this build!

 

You can be the hare and I'll be the tortoise...

 

I did find an email address for the publisher, and have just sent one. Also found these (last attached image) http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=18886 & http://postimage.org/image/bd9k9y5p5/

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have you SEEN any of my builds? This would be more like the tortoise vs.the glacier! serioulsy tho, i'm figuring on a good year from start to finish. Think i've found some resource info... gonna try to find that zlinek issue somewhere cuz i've heard good things from several sites about it after Theirry mentioned it. If i find anything, i'll pass it on to ya.

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Mmm.. that's certainly food for thought Thierry, and many thanks for the information, I do have the Revell, and Trumpeter M kits as well as the Zactogoodies, and just bought the CAM pit, sans instructions - can you help? - where on the Trumpeter kit would you make the cut to add the Revell forward fuselage - I'm going to do a Ukrainian 9-13 so the spine isn't an issue I assume?

 

Yes, I've the instruction sheet. I'll try to scan it on next Friday. The spine is still an issue as the 9-13 © spine is smaller than the 9-15 (M) one. I shall think twice about it. For my kit, I made the following cuts: For the belly, I cut the front fuselage of the Revell kit up the the main landing gear wells but without a rectangle corresponding to the front landing gear well. I also kept the airbrake area. For the upper fuselage, I kept the front fuselage up to a perpendicular line located at the front root of the wings and obviously kept the spine up to the airbrake.

 

This means I used both engine/fin rectangular sections from the Trumpy upper fuselage, the wings and the belly up to the wing root and with a rectangle including the front LG well.

 

Using the Zacto parts will noticeable complicate the assembly as the resin parts are tailored to the Revell kit, not the Trumpeter one! But this is far from impossible with patience.

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You can be the hare and I'll be the tortoise...

 

I did find an email address for the publisher, and have just sent one. Also found these (last attached image) http://forums.eagle....ead.php?t=18886 & http://postimage.org/image/bd9k9y5p5/

 

Terrific info on this forum. By the way, this illustrates more clearly where the cuts may be done!

Edited by thierry laurent
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Yes, I've the instruction sheet. I'll try to scan it on next Friday. The spine is still an issue as the 9-13 © spine is smaller than the 9-15 (M) one. I shall think twice about it. For my kit, I made the following cuts: For the belly, I cut the front fuselage of the Revell kit up the the main landing gear wells but without a rectangle corresponding to the front landing gear well. I also kept the airbrake area. For the upper fuselage, I kept the front fuselage up to a perpendicular line located at the front root of the wings and obviously kept the spine up to the airbrake.

 

This means I used both engine/fin rectangular sections from the Trumpy upper fuselage, the wings and the belly up to the wing root and with a rectangle including the front LG well.

 

Using the Zacto parts will noticeable complicate the assembly as the resin parts are tailored to the Revell kit, not the Trumpeter one! But this is far from impossible with patience.

 

Thanks Thierry, it certainly is something that need much consideration, cheers for the heads up on the book too!

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- front fuselage section with the LERX but without the nose.

 

Is this part needed due primarily for the auxiliary intakes, is so would it not be possible to scribe them, or cut the opening and add the Zacto parts? That way you don't get the fat Revell LERX.

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Damn it! Scanner problem and I won't be at home before eigth days... Sorry but you'll have to wait a little bit if somebody else cannot help you in the meanwhile.

 

You need the LERX section fro the Revell kit for three reasons:

 

- the Mig 9-15 has a sharp edge LERX whereas the 9-12 one had a blunt edge one (a true pain to convert).

- the LERX of the first one is a little bit longer than the one of the second (but I think this may be easily modified).

- most of the LERX details (auxiliary intakes, gun vents and panel lines) are different.

 

So you may use the Trumpy part but I'd not recommend it. I think it is easier to convert the Revell parts.

 

With patience, I think that a 9-12 or 9-13 may be built from the Trumpeter 9-15 and the Zacto parts. However, this is easier with the help of some Revell parts...

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Thanks once again Thierry, no rush on the instruction scan. I noticed the edge is blunter, and that the gun port etc., is a little different, maybe the solution would be to fill and rescibe the gun port, and trim the front edge of the LERX away, replace it with a strip of square plastic stock, then file it into the blunter shape. :hmmm:

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  • 3 weeks later...

After ending the last masters for Harold, I needed working for some days on a full kit to change my mind.

 

This MIG-29 thread stayed in my head and I decided to take the MIG kits with me as I left for one week.

 

Result: it is possible to use the Trumpeter kit as the main source of parts and use the front fuselage (without the nose) and spine from the Revell kit as "aftermarket" parts.

 

This is not easy but possible. The worst area is the upper fuselage... Cockpit is five millimeters too low because of the too fat LERX, kit spine is convex with a step on each side whereas the transition to the fuselage shall be smooth, all panel and rivet lines are fantasy ones and airbrake end is located 8mm further than where it should be...!

 

I used a LOT of CA glue but succeeded in mating all upper and lower sections together and remodeling the offending areas. However, be prepared for dozens of hours with sanding sticks...

 

Conclusion: Try retrieving as less parts as possible from the Revell kit. This will help you in decreasing the time necessary to get a more or less accurate Fulcrum A.

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hmmm.. so basically what you're sayin' is that all you need to do to accurize the revell kit are...

1. fix the LERX either by using Karl's (blackbetty's) method, or come up with some devilish engineering design of your own making

2. re-scribe and re-rivet the entire airframe, and correct the shape of the various appendages, wings, air brake, etc..

3. use the zacto correction to fix everything covered by it

-intakes and FOD doors

-canopy

-tail planes and flare dispensers

-various scoops, lumps and bumps

-exhausts

-nose cone

-a ton of stuff that i can't remember

4. fix the wheel wells, landing gear, and gear bay doors

5. fix the centerline tank if you want to use it

6. fix the bottom of the fuselage to add the curvature to it (thanks for that insight Karl!)

7. new pylons and missles (zacto covers this as well)

8. last, but not least, a new cockpit as the kit one is, to put it nicely, sparse.

 

hmmm.. $50 kit.. $180 in zacto parts, 30 in eduard etch.. 20 or so for decals and a QB seat + untold $$ on reference material, divided by a year or so of your life that you'll never get back..

 

I say bring it!

 

cheers,

Jerry

Edited by ladder4boy
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since my build is going on for so long (much more than a year) i cant remeber all the mods i did exactly. i you want to use the revell kit and modify it, it may seem crazy, but if i were to do it again, i would do a master of the upper fuselage and vacform it - a lot easier to rescribe and structural integrity is much better. mating that vac upper fuse to a trumpy kit would be even better.

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The problem is simple: some modellers including me initially purchased the Revell kit as they were willing to make a Fulcrum A. A short analysis quickly revealed that a ton of work was going to be necessary: conclusion: purchase of CAM pit, Zacto goodies and Eduard sets. You go on and realize that some areas need nonetheless heavy DIY corrections and you finally conclude that some parts may be get from the Trumpy kit. I'm surely not the first modeller who followed this trail.

 

This is a logical but not the best approach. Starting with the Chinese kit is far more interesting if you're ready to cut kits into multiple sections to kitbash or even fully scratchbuild some sections...Otherwise, just add resin sets on the Revell kit and build it as such.

 

If you want to use the Revell spine, I'd recommend using the Revell front fuselage without the nose. Indeed, the cockpit position, front fuselage and LERX are different! It is easier to correct the Revell sections and mate them to the Trumpeter ones rather than modifying the Trumpeter section. I was also wondering about the re-creation of all the gun vents...

 

I also considered the vacform approach but was not convinced because of a simple reason: I hate engraving flimsy vac parts. Getting a strong and thick 45cm long part is not as easy as it may seems...! Moreover, this does not solve the belly issues!

 

The cheaper solution is obvious to my eyes: purchase just the Trumpeter kit and scratchbuild all sections asking for changes...!

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