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Revell Mustang


Bruce_Crosby

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For me, Revell lead the 1/32 market in terms of value for money, at least for their new tool offerings. They sell a high enough volume to keep the prices low, whilst offering enough detail & accuracy to at least offer a sound base to work on, for us poor souls obsessed with accuracy. And at £30 or less, you can model 3-4 for the same price as one, admittedly superior, Tamiya Mustang. Sometimes, I find working on a £100 kit less enjoyable than a £30 kit, because with the latter you have a lot less to lose.

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Hi Guys,

 

A few photos of the paint going on.  It's MMP, Mission Models Paint, based in Salt Lake City in Utah. Good stuff, levels really nicely, a great range of colours that's expanding rapidly. Its my go-to now.

 

39717747690_ef173e45f1_c.jpgUntitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr

 

40813890414_62968c3960_c.jpgUntitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr

 

41485864012_dcabf1d9c0_c.jpgUntitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr

 

40813720674_20fa35048f_c.jpgMustang IV by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr

 

27656189098_a037234024_c.jpgMustang IV by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr

 

Hope you like it so far

 

Regards,

 

Bruce Crosby

Edited by Bruce_Crosby
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Hi Tom,

 

Thanks for the compliment but it's a bit rough round the edges. I'm going to be using soft focus on the photos soon! NMF is a steep learning curve but I'm having fun no matter what. Spent the day masking up to paint the darker fuselage panels, just gone 6pm here and I'll probably be finished about 8. But being retired and live on my own now I can do what the heck I like, when I like!

 

Regards,

 

Bruce Crosby

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I wish! I've used MMP on a few aircraft and armour models now and it's a genuine endorsement. The Luftwaffe colours are superb, did about 95% of my Fw-190D-13 with it and 99% of my recent Revell Me262. This is the first time I've used their new metal colours, they only got delivered last week! And they've got some Japanese colours arriving in the UK soon! Oh yes!

 

Regards,

 

Bruce Crosby

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Hi Guys,

 

Here's today's action from sunny Swindon:

 

Masking up the fuselage sides.

 

40833865644_aac3d7be3e_c.jpgMM by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr

 

41506013432_a6c3168bd7_c.jpgMMM by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr

 

40835654084_7d5f1c4e98_c.jpgMMM by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr

 

41506012422_6f6c97b18d_c.jpgMMM by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr

 

40652200265_d0480425cf_c.jpgMM by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr

 

Getting somewhere at last.

 

Regards,

 

Bruce Crosby

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Hi Tom,

 

Not sure about adhesion yet as I really haven't tried it. I've got a few knocks thru poor handling, my fault as I've never done an NMF before, but taking masking tape off hasn't been a problem. I'm putting the kit decals on precisely because I don't want to lift paint with masks but I will be using my own masks for the fin number. Revell's decals aren't bad at all, very little carrier film around the stars and bars, it says Printed in Italy on the sheet so might be a famous brand? The small data decals are readable and in general they show Revell is really lifting their game.

 

Probably the biggest problem is I used the metallics over Mr Finishing Surfacer and that comes from being an armour builder, we don't mask things all that much! It doesn't appear to bite into plastic and the paint doesn't bite into the primer. Looking back I should have used Badger's Stynylrez or MMP's own Black Primer. This is the second model where I've had lifting with Surfacer even after thorough cleaning, plus it doesn't feather well when sanded. The two brands I've mentioned are both excellent in this respect when applied properly.

 

It's about 7.15 am here and even though I'm still without coffee or my pills I went and had a look at the paint to get myself in the right frame of mind. In the cold hard light of what promises to be a very hot day here in the UK, the metal colours have settled nicely and not as distinct as they seemed yesterday, probably the difference between using daylight lamps and actual, honest to goodness daylight. We don't see it that often here in the darkness of the average cold and wet British summer!

 

Dural to go on an area behind the underslung radiator and on the lip of the air intake just under the nose behind the propeller - both areas quite distinct in photos of 413366. Sand down the U/C outer door faces as I got dust on them last night. Odd bits of paint repair. Then it's our model club tonight and I'll take this one along to get it critiqued so far, plus the Revell 262 I finished a week ago.

 

Don't have a clue about US pricing but the new Revell 1/32 kits such as the the mustang and 262 are very cheap here in the UK and you actually get a lovely, well researched and presented model for your money. Yes, I've got two Tamiya ‘Stangs and a Z-M one in the stash with all the whistles and bells but this has been a pleasure to construct out of the box.

 

Regards,

 

Bruce Crosby

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Oh, I just love them Mustangs. :)

 

And yours is apparently coming along very nicely, Mr. Cosby!

Did you encounter any problem with the fit of the windscreen? As many other builds have run into bumps in that area, you seem to have avoided them, judging from the pics.

 

Any preemptive fiddling on your part, there? 

 

 

Best regards,

Joerg

Edited by BlackCanopy
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Hi Joerg,

 

There was a bit of fiddling! The fuselage was slightly wider than the front of the windscreen but not much. Once it was set hard and masked as well to protect the clear screens, I added Mr Surfacer 500 in thin layers and sanded down with Flory sanders until the profile was right. It's blended in nicely.

 

Taking the model to our local model club tonight and got to get things done, like load the car!

 

Regards,

 

Bruce Crosby

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Guys,

 

I've been pressing on with the Mustang and had a few problems.  My first NMF and it's been a pain in the posterior, that's a fact.  I put on some Pledge Finish and it pooled.  The decals wrinkled and ripped.  I found Revell Decals like Mr Setter and pull down rapidly but Mr Softer can dissolve the paint so I went back to good old, proven to work Micro Scale products,  Luckily I have a second kit to hand to rob the decals from.  The decals themselves are very nice, well designed (Barracuda according to the instruction sheet!) and perfect register and clarity.

 

Originally airbrushed the exhaust surround panels with MMP Chrome but thought it was too pale.

 

27736832558_f2aafb62f8_c.jpgUntitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr

 

I ended up using MMP Have Glass Grey, meant to be the finish for the F-35!

 

40895153364_d5d8793250_c.jpgUntitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr

 

Prop blades painted:

 

40714416805_8bee79e590_c.jpgUntitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr

 

And decalled!

 

41754364792_076f9a5e78_c.jpgFinishing by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr

 

41079323634_493a5858f1_c.jpgFinishing by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr

 

Home cut mask (Silhouette is an expensive purchase but oh so handy!)

 

41795786591_624629c073_c.jpgMarking by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr

 

41795788091_551b3a7ee5_c.jpgMarking by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr

 

And here's where we are today:

 

26927870167_b26daef479_c.jpgFinishing by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr

 

I was going to use MMP's Matt Varnish but it went a little too satin for me. Almost certainly my fault as I've found their products to be superb so far.  So I rummaged around and found some bottles of Polly Scale Matt Varnish that have been kicking around for about ten years but never used. Never even tried it before!  I found it had separated out in the bottle but after a quick wizz with the electric stirrer is seemed to be alright so I added 20% distilled water, loaded it into my everyday airbrush the Badger Krome, dialled in the air to about 15 psi and gave it a blast.

 

Did it go matt? Like, wow!  Matt right in front of my eyes! However, I will try the MMP Matt again as I'm sure it was operator error.  Their gloss is excellent.  I use it for clear colours all the time, adding a tiny amount of their superb basic colour range as required.

 

Hope you like it so far.

 

Regards,

 

Bruce Crosby

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