RLWP Posted January 18, 2018 Author Share Posted January 18, 2018 It might just work! This has been a bit of trial and error, I'll let it set hard then trim off the bits that don't look like a seat Richard Alain Gadbois, LSP_Kevin, MikeC and 6 others 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TorbenD Posted January 18, 2018 Share Posted January 18, 2018 Really interesting seeing this one come together - a very nice bit of scratching going on here. Torben RLWP 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peterpools Posted January 18, 2018 Share Posted January 18, 2018 Richard Amazing work. So glad you are taking your time so we can soak up and appreciate the details Keep 'em comin Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted January 19, 2018 Share Posted January 19, 2018 Amazing work indeed! Kev RLWP 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLWP Posted January 20, 2018 Author Share Posted January 20, 2018 Grey is easier to see than white: The surfaces that will be glued have been masked off - except I forgot to mask for the rear seat Richard Starfighter, sandokan, Jeff and 2 others 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peterpools Posted January 20, 2018 Share Posted January 20, 2018 Richard Just keeps getting better and better - what a treat for sure. Keep ‘em comin Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLWP Posted January 20, 2018 Author Share Posted January 20, 2018 Richard Just keeps getting better and better - what a treat for sure. Keep ‘em comin Peter Thank you What I'd really like to do is inspire people into having a go at this stuff. I really do find it easier, certainly less frustrating, than chopping and scraping kits to get what I want Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLWP Posted January 20, 2018 Author Share Posted January 20, 2018 (edited) Controls on the port side, tubes on the starboard: Richard Edited January 20, 2018 by RLWP Hubert Boillot, KiwiZac, sandokan and 5 others 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alain Gadbois Posted January 21, 2018 Share Posted January 21, 2018 Beautiful work Richard! I also find it is easier to make from scratch than try to fix parts. Alain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLWP Posted January 24, 2018 Author Share Posted January 24, 2018 Starboard side fixed in place, compass and leather cover for joystick Richard sandokan, Jeff, BradG and 5 others 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLWP Posted January 25, 2018 Author Share Posted January 25, 2018 Port side fitted and some more structure in place: Looks a bit like an aeroplane now Those little ball knobs on the controls were rolled up from two part epoxy putty between my thumb and finger. I must be mad Richard sandokan, MikeC, TorbenD and 6 others 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLWP Posted January 28, 2018 Author Share Posted January 28, 2018 (edited) Something different That's a piece of 0.010" styrene, scribed for the rib tapes and taped to the drawing. The framework is 0.030" round stuff bent and glued Next is fill in the rest of the ribs: This is with the other surface stuck on: Using this construction, you can get two full size effects, one of which is this: The other will have to wait for some paint I made the rudder and fin too. The difference is there is a 0.040" square rudder post, the ribs are 0.040" thinned at the ends and the outer edge is 0.030" And here are both Blu-Taced in place: Not easy to see there, I got a few solvent dips in both parts. It's a consequence of using such thin sheet and brushing solvent. None are big, I have filled them and I'll sand back later. I'm not too bothered if I lose some of the rib detail when sanding. Aeroplanes from this era have a sort of organic feel to them, not every feature is absolutely uniform so a few hard-to-see rib tapes is fine with me Richard Edited January 28, 2018 by RLWP Alain Gadbois, sandokan, Jeff and 9 others 12 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kkarlsen Posted January 28, 2018 Share Posted January 28, 2018 Wonderful! RLWP 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted January 28, 2018 Share Posted January 28, 2018 Very impressive work, Richard! Kev RLWP 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLWP Posted January 30, 2018 Author Share Posted January 30, 2018 (edited) The first things I made for this were the wing skins: 0.010" styrene sheet with the rib tapes scribed on, then folded along the leading edge I made a new core from a piece of balsa to replace the one I trashed : Cut to shape. The balsa goes right to the leading egde, but stops about 1/8" short of the ends and trailing edge: Then I sand it to be roughly a wing profile. You can make it a proper NACA or RAF section if you want, I'm looking for something pointy at the front that thins at the back. Most important is to get a feather edge otherwise you can get a step in the wing skin: The core is sprayed with sealant, dried, then covered in double sided tape: Bottom to top we have a core covered in tape, the wing skin and the wing former. I made this for my Morane Saulnier, I've used it for other wings since then and it's probably time to make a new one. It's a piece of balsa sanded to a curve and taped to a board The skin is taped to the leading edge of the former: Then the core stuck to the lower part of the skin, smoothing it down onto the former: Next, the top skin is smoothed onto the core with a ruler: Finally the trailing edge is glued and taped down to cure: When that is stuck, I used one of my paper plans to cut the outer shape: No images of the next steps, I forgot. Basically it's stick down the wing tips like the tailing edge was, then deal with flaws. I have started to use less solvent as I was getting sinks in the skins, now I get edges that don't stick and have to be glued again. Along the wing tips there's a lot of double curvature so you get dents and wobbles. Dents can be filled and wobbles sanded out Anyway, I now have this: The tank is a bit of shaped balsa, top and bottom covered in double sided tape then skinned in 0.010" styrene. The edges are corrugated styrene Some of this is procrastination while I decide how to do the top of the fuselage Richard Edited January 30, 2018 by RLWP BradG, MikeC, sandokan and 9 others 12 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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