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1/32 Tamiya F4U-1D!


wrbrdmech

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Thanks for the input Jennings / CBK57.   Interesting that those kill decals weren't as widespread as I assumed.   Will probably go without.   Still waiting for the Tamiya kit and the decals so I've got plenty of time to decide.  Still may opt for the Block Island Corsair instead.   Never saw any pics of those Corsairs before, I kinda have a thing for the more obscure markings.  

 

We'll see....

 

On a related note, if I want a bit of color, I suppose I could always go with a few off-spec ammo covers.  It seems that they were pretty prevalent and since they could literally change from day to day, anything I come up with has a good chance to have been accurate (at least for a short time). 

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7 minutes ago, John1 said:

Thanks for the input Jennings / CBK57.   Interesting that those kill decals weren't as widespread as I assumed.   Will probably go without.   Still waiting for the Tamiya kit and the decals so I've got plenty of time to decide.  Still may opt for the Block Island Corsair instead.   Never saw any pics of those Corsairs before, I kinda have a thing for the more obscure markings.  

 

We'll see....

 

On a related note, if I want a bit of color, I suppose I could always go with a few off-spec ammo covers.  It seems that they were pretty prevalent and since they could literally change from day to day, anything I come up with has a good chance to have been accurate (at least for a short time). 

I took a look at the marking scheme you were talking about, it is actually one of the ones I am considering very strongly and really like.  Personally I am seriously going to consider doing it with Kill markings and probably will if I do it.  Accurate or not it helps tell the planes story to anyone looking at the built model.  

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With respect to using the Barracuda Cockpit placards: I have used them twice. The plus is they add a lot of visually interesting detail to the cockpit.

 

They have a couple of downsides. First, the white decals are printed on a very light coloured decal backing paper, so they can be hard to see until the decal has been dipped in water. This is particularly applicable for the big rheostat placard that goes on the right side console. This is one of those decals that REALLY needs to be cut into multiple pieces to line up and fit correctly.

 

Secondly, the surrounding backing film can be a problem in places where the decal needs to conform to a very tight area. Examples of this are the placards that go on the landing gear control panel, the arresting hook/ wing folding  control quadrants, and some itty bitty decals that go on the radio boxes on the fuselage sidewalls.

 

Finally, the decals are very gluey; they are a bit reluctant to slide and adjust into position before you press them down and bomb them with setting solution.

 

The decals take a long time to apply if you use all of them but they really add a LOT to the cockpit. Its just that it's hard on your eyesight to apply them all. I'm told the Mustang placards are even more tedious to apply, but i'm not a P-51 guy so i cannot speak from firsthand experience.

 

i DO recommend them, but just be prepared for what you're getting into.

 

-d-

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I have used Baracuda placards on both the Mustang and Corsair, they take a lot of time but to me they are essential.  I just think the cockpit looks much more alive with them.  I won’t say which is harder or easier, their are a lot of decals and they take a lot of time to apply but the overall effect is worth it.  Arguably they are too good, I apply them using a magnifying lense and you can read them if you magnify enough, all of that perfection is really not visible in reality.  But when done it all looks right, if that makes sense.

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I saw the wonderful color footage of 161 at your booth, and it was amazing looking..............so much so Im now interested in modelling it.  Quick question for you on it:

 

Do the "G symbol" markings have to be painted by the modeler? (I may have just missed them on the decals sheet, but cant remember) 

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I'm not worried at all about having to paint them, AAMOF I like using masks a lot (making my own that is), but I'm not sure my OCD would ever let me make the cowl stripes look hand painted/uneaven nor put overspray on the Gs. I know it would be wrong, but I just dont think I could do it

 

Is that a gray stripe outline on the G symbols? I recall seeing it in pics but just thinking of a plan of action for paint....

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13 hours ago, Jennings Heilig said:

 

Not sure what you mean by gray stripe outline?  You mean the overspray?  If so, yes, it's quite visible on all of the bow tie G-symbols on every Essex bird I've seen.

 

 

Yes. It was just pretty consistent across the board on the sheet, so was thinking it may have been an outline. I do see it now on the actual pics. Will have to think of a way to replicate that. Also it looks like the over-spray is more grey than white...................is that just an optical allusion I assume?

 

Sorry for all the questions, just trying to get my ducks in a row for a build of 161

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5 minutes ago, Kagemusha said:

Sounds wrong, but you're probably better having the airbrush pointing away from the area required, so you do just get a small amount of over spray, I'd also paint the pure white sections before or after.

 

 

Yeah, was thinking about masking that outer area off first the spraying substantially inside that demark to get the correct bit of over-spray (after experimentation on my mule of course!) then masking inside after that for the pure white.  Im just confused on why the D symbol is white, and the over-spray looks grey. 

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Wouldn’t a thin haze of white over dark gloss sea blue turn grey?  What I don’t understand is how you get overspray to begin with when the edges of the marking look so defined.  If they were masked off which they likely were in some manner there would be no overspray unless they used something like one or two inch wide tape spraying the inside of the tape but then some paint goes to the outside of the tape.  Then you should have white, dark sea blue then grey right?  

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14 minutes ago, Jennings Heilig said:

Yes, what you’re seeing as “grey” is white overspray on GSB. And don’t forget that white paint in WWII was very opaque due to its heavy metal pigments.

 

 

I figured it was a trick of the eye, and probably due to the white over-spray being so light. Thanks for the clarification.  Should be fairly easy to use some 1/16th" tape on the boarder of the white to simulate the 2" masking tape they used. 

Ill probably in the end just make up a mask set for the wing G symbols, and a separate one for the vertical fin, and incorporate the 1/16th" stripe of DSB in the pattern. I think it will just take a bit of experimentation/finagling to get the over-spray looking right.  Shouldn't be too hard. 

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14 minutes ago, Out2gtcha said:

 

 

I figured it was a trick of the eye, and probably due to the white over-spray being so light. Thanks for the clarification.  Should be fairly easy to use some 1/16th" tape on the boarder of the white to simulate the 2" masking tape they used. 

Ill probably in the end just make up a mask set for the wing G symbols, and a separate one for the vertical fin, and incorporate the 1/16th" stripe of DSB in the pattern. I think it will just take a bit of experimentation/finagling to get the over-spray looking right.  Shouldn't be too hard. 

 

When you figure out the sizes and pattern for the G symbol i’d be happy to take a copy of the file off your hands. Always happy to let others do that kind of work for me. :P

 

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1 hour ago, ade rowlands said:

When you figure out the sizes and pattern for the G symbol i’d be happy to take a copy of the file off your hands. Always happy to let others do that kind of work for me. :P

 

 

lol - Will do

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2 hours ago, Out2gtcha said:

Should be fairly easy to use some 1/16th" tape on the boarder of the white to simulate the 2" masking tape they used.  Shouldn't be too hard. 

I tend to think that replicating the light overspray in a consistent and to-scale manner will be the hard part. Look forward to seeing someone give it a try.   

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