themongoose Posted January 3, 2018 Share Posted January 3, 2018 So I picked up the Belcher Bits resin conversion for the Hasegawa F-5E to F-5A. It's got a pretty hefty fuselage in it. I've washed the parts and can't seem to get rid of the oily, glossy looking finish, on one side. I've tried to show this in the attached picture. The shine on the right side isn't the light, it's the resin. I used dawn dh sopa in warm water to wash them. I also tried sanding on one section of it to see if it was the surface finish. When I do that it gets dull but within an hour it is back to an oily look. has anyone run up against something similar and have a solution? Thanks in advance for the help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 3, 2018 Share Posted January 3, 2018 Could it just be a very polished area ?....Harv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
themongoose Posted January 3, 2018 Author Share Posted January 3, 2018 Hi Harv, I thought the same thing. When I sanded it the glossy look returned after awhile making me think it wasn't the finish. Anything else I could try to verify it's not the finish? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted January 3, 2018 Share Posted January 3, 2018 I got a good tip from an old friend in the movie prop business re: removing mold release agents from resin, which this might be. I'm not sure that's it if you've tried sanding it already, but it might be worth a shot..... Got to your local auto parts store and pick up some Black Magic "Bleche Wite" (yes it's spelled like that). Its a bit caustic, as it's used to clean white wall tires, but if your issue IS stubborn mold release agent that will take it off. I generally soak all my resin kits in it overnight. HTH Shawn M 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted January 3, 2018 Share Posted January 3, 2018 To test whether it's really a surface contamination, or simply an effect captured in the resin, spray some primer over it (I'd go with either Mr. Surfacer or Tamiya's primer, right out of the rattle can). If there's no reaction, bleeding, beading, or other unwanted effects after the primer dries, you're probably good to go. I've seen a lot of resin parts that appear to be coated in something in certain areas, but end up being perfectly OK to use. Of course, if there really is surface contamination, Brian's solution is probably as good as any. Unfortunately, we can't get that product here in Australia. Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelingbob Posted January 3, 2018 Share Posted January 3, 2018 Soak & wash the offending pieces in lacquer thinner (Bleche Wite will also work but it can be hard to find, everyone can find lacquer thinner!). Let dry and put aside for a short time (say a week). If the "residue" returns you have an improperly cured resin batch and it will continue to "seep" the residue. If that's the case, return to vendor for replacement because paint will never stick to it, even primer won't. IMNSHO, since you already sanded the offending part and the "residue" returned afterwards you probably do have an improperly cured resin batch. Out2gtcha and Vandy 1 VX 4 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vandy 1 VX 4 Posted January 3, 2018 Share Posted January 3, 2018 I got a good tip from an old friend in the movie prop business re: removing mold release agents from resin, which this might be. I'm not sure that's it if you've tried sanding it already, but it might be worth a shot..... Got to your local auto parts store and pick up some Black Magic "Bleche Wite" (yes it's spelled like that). Its a bit caustic, as it's used to clean white wall tires, but if your issue IS stubborn mold release agent that will take it off. I generally soak all my resin kits in it overnight. HTH To test whether it's really a surface contamination, or simply an effect captured in the resin, spray some primer over it (I'd go with either Mr. Surfacer or Tamiya's primer, right out of the rattle can). If there's no reaction, bleeding, beading, or other unwanted effects after the primer dries, you're probably good to go. I've seen a lot of resin parts that appear to be coated in something in certain areas, but end up being perfectly OK to use. Of course, if there really is surface contamination, Brian's solution is probably as good as any. Unfortunately, we can't get that product here in Australia. Kev Soak & wash the offending pieces in lacquer thinner (Bleche Wite will also work but it can be hard to find, everyone can find lacquer thinner!). Let dry and put aside for a short time (say a week). If the "residue" returns you have an improperly cured resin batch and it will continue to "seep" the residue. If that's the case, return to vendor for replacement because paint will never stick to it, even primer won't. IMNSHO, since you already sanded the offending part and the "residue" returned afterwards you probably do have an improperly cured resin batch. I have followed all three of these ideas. I highly recommend them. Out2gtcha and Shawn M 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted January 3, 2018 Share Posted January 3, 2018 IMNSHO, since you already sanded the offending part and the "residue" returned afterwards you probably do have an improperly cured resin batch. Unfortunately, Im kinda thinking the same thing w/it comes to the BB stuff. All the above is probably worth a shot over having to send the parts back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BiggTim Posted January 3, 2018 Share Posted January 3, 2018 I agree that all of the ideas mentioned before should work, and i'll add 91% isopropyl alcohol to the list. Pretty much any solvent that will not harm the resin and will not leave any residue should work. Shawn M 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
themongoose Posted January 3, 2018 Author Share Posted January 3, 2018 I have some Bleche Wite in the garage that I use for the cars. I'll start on these ideas tonight and see what happens. I really hope something works as I bought hese 2nd hand so there's no going back. Fortunately Belcher Bits makes them still so i will just have to reinvest if the part is bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
themongoose Posted January 20, 2018 Author Share Posted January 20, 2018 Ok after a day of soaking in the bleche white, SUCCESS! the primer has been drying for 2 days now and there's no apparent sign of the paint lifting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 20, 2018 Share Posted January 20, 2018 Good to hear !......Harv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgem37 Posted January 20, 2018 Share Posted January 20, 2018 Put a piece of tape to it and pull the tape off. Then it will have passed the test. Sincerely, Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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