chuck540z3 Posted April 20, 2016 Share Posted April 20, 2016 Wow Eric, really nice start on the engine! Your painting and plumbing is top notch and I like your use of a gloss jet black lacquer, which can be scaled back with a dull coat and pastels later. If I can pass on a new trick I just learned from Wolf Buddee, try using Tamiya Semi-gloss lacquer rather than the usual dull coat when the time comes. For some reason a tiny bit of shine just looks more realistic and although the label says "semi-gloss", it's a bit duller than that. I just used it on the IP of my F-15C build and now I'm a big fan. Bill_S, CANicoll and kvlazer22 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fooesboy Posted April 20, 2016 Share Posted April 20, 2016 (edited) Hi Eric, As I am building a skeleton model the guns are a very prominent feature, I am unsure how much difference they will make on your Tamiya kit. But then we all add extra detail that once the model is complete no one can ever see it.... but we know it is there! As for the gear doors, I am sure that the needle is a big improvement over the kit plastic but if you are getting the Volks gun barrels then the extra parts sure look good.... BUT the most important thing is that you have FUN with what ever you choose to do on your build! Looking forward to your next progress report.... Chris BTW, my Fundekals for "Daddy's Girl" arrived yesterday along with their data stencil set, they look great! Edited April 21, 2016 by Fooesboy kvlazer22 and AlexM 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squizzy 78 Posted April 20, 2016 Share Posted April 20, 2016 Looks like a great start to a high quality of model. And looking at the paint scheme of 'daddy's girl' , I think that you've chosen a fantastic looking bird! Good luck with the build. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MustangManiac Posted April 21, 2016 Share Posted April 21, 2016 Hi Eric, First off welcome to the forum! Secondly, your build looks awesome so far. Keep up the good work! Cheers, Brady Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kvlazer22 Posted April 21, 2016 Author Share Posted April 21, 2016 Wow Eric, really nice start on the engine! Your painting and plumbing is top notch and I like your use of a gloss jet black lacquer, which can be scaled back with a dull coat and pastels later. If I can pass on a new trick I just learned from Wolf Buddee, try using Tamiya Semi-gloss lacquer rather than the usual dull coat when the time comes. For some reason a tiny bit of shine just looks more realistic and although the label says "semi-gloss", it's a bit duller than that. I just used it on the IP of my F-15C build and now I'm a big fan. Chuck, funny you brought this up. When I wrote the post I had to check the Tamiya website to get the color number of the TS14 and saw the Semi-Gloss Black (TS29) and thought....why didn't I use that? Oh well, now I know and will give it a try...thanks! As for the gear doors, I am sure that the needle is a big improvement over the kit plastic but if you are getting the Volks gun barrels then the extra parts sure look good.... Those gear door struts are pretty sexy....I may have to indulge myself! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuck540z3 Posted April 21, 2016 Share Posted April 21, 2016 Chuck, funny you brought this up. When I wrote the post I had to check the Tamiya website to get the color number of the TS14 and saw the Semi-Gloss Black (TS29) and thought....why didn't I use that? Oh well, now I know and will give it a try...thanks! To be "clear", I was referring to the clear coat, not the actual black paint. I now like to use glossy finishes right off the bat, which are easier to decal without Future and you can always tone down the shine later. A Merlin engine, of course, will be fairly dull, so when you are finished painting and weathering it, spray some semi-gloss or actual dull coat to knock down the glossy finish. Cheers, Chuck kvlazer22 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bomber_County Posted April 21, 2016 Share Posted April 21, 2016 Eric. Welcome to LSP forums Only recently joined myself, best decision I have made for a very long time. Looking forward to your 51. Doing the Corsair at present, Mosquito in stock, maybe add the 51 for a rainy day.......... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Youngtiger1 Posted April 22, 2016 Share Posted April 22, 2016 Welcome aboard Eric. This is a great site with many talented modelers. There is a lot that we can learn from each other. You are doing great and I'm sure there will be things we will learn from you as well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peterpools Posted April 23, 2016 Share Posted April 23, 2016 Welcome aboard and there can never be enough Mustangs underway for our enjoyment. keep 'em coming Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kvlazer22 Posted May 27, 2016 Author Share Posted May 27, 2016 With the weather getting warmer and the start of a huge house addition, I don't have a lot of time to model but I do have a quick update. I finally finished up the exhaust ignition harnesses. I had a lot of trouble with these compared to the intake ignition harnesses. With the top harnesses I was able use copper wire and “fudge†the location of where the ignition lines connect to the spark plugs since they are hidden from the intake covers. However, with the exhaust wires I had to insert them in the engine since they are visible. Hats off to Tamiya for molding these holes into the plastic to make for an easy drill out. Instead of copper, I went with lead wire from UMM-USA which is MUCH more flexible than the copper wire. The lead wire made it easier to get those suckers in the spark plug holes. Thanks to Mark (dodgem37) and his P-51 build for turning me on to Detail Master and all of their fantastic products. I love the look of those braided lines that attach the ignition harness to the magnetos. Also, I got the Eduard linkages attached to the control shaft at the rear of the motor. Do you ever feel like you could rebuild the real engine after one of your builds? I used a 0.030†styrene rod for the ignition harness and lead wire for the spark plugs wires. The lead wire from UMM-USA. The braided line attaching the harness to the magneto is from Detail Master. I used aluminum from a soda can to create the connectors on the end of the braided line, thanks to Chuck (chuck540z3) for that tip. You can see the Eduard linkage attached to the bottom of the magneto. Swan-neck, CANicoll, Whitey and 3 others 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martinnfb Posted May 27, 2016 Share Posted May 27, 2016 Hi Eric, your work is extremely fine and clean I am enjoying every update, thanks for sharing. Cheers Martin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted May 27, 2016 Share Posted May 27, 2016 Wow, that is fantastic! Superb engine, Eric. Kev kvlazer22 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kvlazer22 Posted May 31, 2016 Author Share Posted May 31, 2016 Wow, that is fantastic! Superb engine, Eric. Kev Hi Eric, your work is extremely fine and clean I am enjoying every update, thanks for sharing. Cheers Martin Thanks guys...appreciate it! -Eric Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CANicoll Posted June 4, 2016 Share Posted June 4, 2016 WOW, definitely looking good. I also used the Eduard Linkage on my Mustang, but the other plumbing you are doing makes it look like the real thing. Love the gloss black too, I need to pick up that trick. I'm sure it is sturdier than the acrylic paints I usually use. Can't wait to see the next update. Keep em coming! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kvlazer22 Posted June 14, 2016 Author Share Posted June 14, 2016 Now that summer is in full swing I rarely get around to modeling but I did finish the engine construction and wanted to give a teaser of what is to come. I will post more pictures once I get the weathering and the dullcoat applied. CANicoll and KUROK 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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