Shaka HI Posted June 7, 2017 Share Posted June 7, 2017 Awesome, update Chuck, What's that blue stuff used for masking? chuck540z3 and Joel_W 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuck540z3 Posted June 7, 2017 Author Share Posted June 7, 2017 Awesome, update Chuck, What's that blue stuff used for masking? Hi, it's just ordinary liquid mask (LM), in this case "Micro Mask". I carefully add strips of varying widths of Tamiya masking tape to cover as much as I can, then I apply LM to those tight areas where tape won't cover. Here are some tips when using it: 1) The thicker the better. A thin coat of LM is almost impossible to get off, because it shrinks so much while drying, it is too thin to form a layer you can grab onto. If you build it up with several layers, it will easily pull off later as a vinyl-like film. 2) Don't put LM in areas that have a lot of convoluted relief, like a screw with threads. There will be too much surface area that it adheres to, so removing it is almost impossible. 3) It is water soluble, so if you get some where it shouldn't, you can wipe it off with a moistened cloth or paintbrush. 4) Same goes for fully hardened and cured LM. If it won't pull off, soak it with water. It's a lot messier to remove this way, but sometimes you have no choice. 5) LM also works great to seal masking tape edges to hold them down. In wheel wells, like the ones above, I apply an even thick coat to the entire circumference to keep the tape from lifting later. 6) Use a very small microbrush to apply LM. When you're finished, wash the brush in warm water and the brush can be used again. Cheers, Chuck kike_gt, Shaka HI, A-10LOADER and 2 others 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kike_gt Posted June 7, 2017 Share Posted June 7, 2017 Great tips Chuck! awesome descrption of you great work chuck540z3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scvrobeson Posted June 7, 2017 Share Posted June 7, 2017 Great job Chuck! Love the tiny details. To cut the fine brass tube, just take a sharp X-Acto blade, and slightly roll it perpendicularly across the tube. After a few rolls, you should be able to pretty much snap the brass tube section off without crimping the end closed. Matt chuck540z3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chek Posted June 7, 2017 Share Posted June 7, 2017 To cut the fine brass tube, just take a sharp X-Acto blade, and slightly roll it perpendicularly across the tube. After a few rolls, you should be able to pretty much snap the brass tube section off without crimping the end closed. Matt Agreed, though as I'd normally use such small bore tube for 1/72 gun and pitot tubes, I use stainless steel hypo needles, heated to glowing red hot first, then rolled under the knife when cooled, with a wipe with wire wool to brush off any loosened slag that delaminates. The oxide coated tubing then superglues more securely than shiny stainless steel, I find. scvrobeson and chuck540z3 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackbetty Posted June 7, 2017 Share Posted June 7, 2017 for cutting fine tubes i insert a fitting piece of wire and cut it with the tube, so it cant be distorted chuck540z3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucio Martino Posted June 7, 2017 Share Posted June 7, 2017 Chuck,First of all congratulations. Then, what about some more pictures of your Eagle as it is now before painting ?Just to give us the opportunity to see more clearly all the changes and additions ?Best, A-10LOADER and chuck540z3 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peterpools Posted June 7, 2017 Share Posted June 7, 2017 Chuck Enjoying and learning from each and every update. I only wish I had your eye for identifying every detail and then the skill to incorporate them on to the model. Eagerly looking forward to the Eagle in paint. Keep 'em coming Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starfighter Jock Posted June 7, 2017 Share Posted June 7, 2017 Lol..... On a long project build the last parts of the build always get referred to as the rest of the "crap" I have to finish. Loving the build Chuck, keep it up you are rounding third base on your way to home plate! KJ chuck540z3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonH Posted June 7, 2017 Share Posted June 7, 2017 Wow and again Wow! chuck540z3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joel_W Posted June 7, 2017 Share Posted June 7, 2017 Chuck, Just another great update. I really love all those mini tutorials as they apply to modeling building in general, and not just your build. I totally forgot about Microsol's Liquid Mask, so It's on my needs list for my next purchase. Same for the shiny Alcads which I learned the hard way should be painted on last, and not masked. Finally you're up to the painting stage. Can't wait to see what magic you work with your air brush. Joel A-10LOADER and chuck540z3 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F`s are my favs Posted June 7, 2017 Share Posted June 7, 2017 Finally Chuck, some final touches, and the painting is just around the corner. ))) Very happy to see this big Eagle at this step. 2 highlights - very very nice joint between the nose and the fuselage from the underside. And a very nice approach for first masking the heat shields and painting them last. Btw some primer before the paint?! chuck540z3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuck540z3 Posted June 7, 2017 Author Share Posted June 7, 2017 (edited) Thanks guys for all the tips on cutting brass tubing. I'll be sure to try them next time! Finally Chuck, some final touches, and the painting is just around the corner. ))) Very happy to see this big Eagle at this step. 2 highlights - very very nice joint between the nose and the fuselage from the underside. And a very nice approach for first masking the heat shields and painting them last. Btw some primer before the paint?! Thanks Milan. That raised nose to fuselage join is a real pain, but with a LOT of sanding, I beat it down to something more reasonable. As for priming, I never actually "prime" my models, but I do apply a very thin coat of the primary color (MM enamel) to check for flaws. After I fix them, I go straight to a thicker coat and I'm done. This is why I spend so much time getting the surface of the plastic so smooth in order to minimize the number of coats of paint required, which can fill the tiny details that I have tried to create. With all due respect to those who use them, Mr. Surfacer and other "Micro-fillers" are not for me. Micro-fillers also fill micro-details, so I'd rather spend time on the plastic to make it smooth than use several coats of paint. For the Alclad lacquer, however, a primer coat is a must because it needs something to bite into. For Alclad, I use either Krylon (enamel) or Tamiya (lacquer) gloss black decanted from the rattle can. If the plastic is smooth and the paint finish is applied properly, you have a terrific base coat for Alclad. Here's my P-38L again, to show you how it should look before Alclad. I hope my F-15C looks just as smooth. Cheers, Chuck Edited July 11, 2017 by chuck540z3 Joel_W, F`s are my favs, Rdrunner and 3 others 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A-10LOADER Posted June 7, 2017 Share Posted June 7, 2017 Really looking forward to seeing her with some colors applied. Good luck. Steve chuck540z3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuck540z3 Posted June 26, 2017 Author Share Posted June 26, 2017 Hi Guys, A bit of a progress report for those who may be wondering. The camo paint is done and I am on to the extreme OCD stage of fixing every tiny flaw in the paint, which takes several trips back and forth to the paint booth over several days. After that, I'll be painting the nose cone and leading edges of the control surfaces, then all the small details like antennae and gun vent, followed by a gloss clear coat to prep the model for decals. Rather than show what it looks like now and make all sorts of excuses about how it will look in the near future, I'll post a big update with all these steps at once with instructions as to how I did it. Getting the correct colors first, followed by a convincing application of the paint pattern while preserving all the tiny details I added later is the main goal. All I'll add for now is to NEVER use Plasticine in place of proper Poster Putty when creating camo demarcation lines :BANGHEAD2: ! I did, which cost me about 8 hours of extra work and a lot of grief, which I'll explain later. I should have something meaningful to show in about 2 weeks. Thanks for your continued interest in this project. Cheers, Chuck Starfighter Jock, A-10LOADER, sandokan and 5 others 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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