Hardcore Posted September 3, 2015 Author Share Posted September 3, 2015 (edited) Yesterday. A bit more careful glueing of the front pieces. Notice the oil tank. The propeller will be glued firm to it and cannot rotate(!). Odd, but maybe a common Trumpeter design? Anyway the tank help keeping everything in line, theoretically. The side panel fit well. I used a paper strip to lift the MG up out if its groove in the cowl. Maybe that wasn't necessary. Oh, the white thing in the hole for the compressor is the plasticard assembly of the right hand exhaust. Edited September 3, 2015 by Hardcore Martinnfb and andromeda673 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hardcore Posted September 3, 2015 Author Share Posted September 3, 2015 I can report I fell to a common trap when glueing together the fuselage. Yep, it got too slim. I noticed this when figuring out what the problem was with the fit of the starboard engine cowling. The cause was the natural tendencies of the unsupported plastic fuselage, and that i glued the cockpit to both fuselage halves. sigh. Easy to fix but the unnecessary work to make the cowling fit will leave marks. x-( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martinnfb Posted September 4, 2015 Share Posted September 4, 2015 Hi HC, Martin has a new radiator housing for you. Trumpet's nose has a weird streched shape due the extended width of this part. All you need to do is to cut out the radiator cowl ring of the trumpeter's mold and replaced it with Hasegawa's piece, Let me know if you want it. Cheers M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hardcore Posted September 4, 2015 Author Share Posted September 4, 2015 Thank you, that is kind. I will keep that in mind but basically I build this out of the box. I will spend more attention to the Revell kit which probably will appeal more to me in all ways. Or any Hase kit. Regrettably Trumpeter seems to employ non-builders as evidenced by the peculiar mix of PE and plastic. It is cheap and looks like a messerschmitt. I give three out of five stars Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hardcore Posted September 13, 2015 Author Share Posted September 13, 2015 (edited) Ugh! When a kit is not shake and bake it takes forever to build and get to the priming stage. Also over time the finish tend to get worse with scratch and dents everywhere. It will be great when I can finally prime this one! Today I installed the remaining "moving surfaces". Note that the fin lack any rivets and thus represents a wooden one, and the stabilisators are metal. Regretably they are not very well made for other positions than the neutral. When I dry fitted the flaps it showed I had to remove some plastics in order to lower the point where they attach to the wings. Same with the elevators. Here is photos from before and after surgery. The flaps doesn't look too good after this but it will be hidden in the shadows under the wing. (Would you dare keep coarse paper like this close to your models ?) I also worked on the PE for the cockpit. Interestingly there are TWO sets for the Galland Panzer. The unused part has a bigger clear part. New to me that the Germans did changes to this armour and I wonder were they got that information. Oh, yes, the PE is not an option. There is no plastic so one must use the metal. I will go and get some black vallejo primer for that RLM 66 finish. Today I made do with a lighter one. Now I understand it was mistake on my part to not have studied other construction reviews of (earlier) Trumpeter Bf 109s. It appears my attempt to make sure the wings attach well to the fuselage also slightly changed the size of the cockpit, and as a consequence it is about 0.5 mm too wide now. This photo show there was no indication of this. It was only when I dry fitted the canopy that this showed up. Annoying. The best thing of this kit is the rubber wheels, and I may save them for a Hasegawa kit. PS. Right I forgot to mention I removed the ribbing on elevators and ailerons. They were awful! Edited September 13, 2015 by Hardcore andromeda673 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hardcore Posted September 20, 2015 Author Share Posted September 20, 2015 Tonight i primed the whole thing. I suppose i should use a quality primer and not just white spray paint. Coverage is so so. The can is almost empty now, however, and for next project I will look for alternatives. The wheels are from Hasegawas K-4. They will be black. A bit of artistic license (I LIKE shiny black!) The czech machines where after all put together from war time parts. I have not decided on the color of gear and doors yet. Anyway it looks like the wheels will fit. The tail wheel present a problem. As can be seen it is shorter than the trumpeter original. I need to lengthen it somehow to strengthen it. mywifehatesmodels 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hardcore Posted September 24, 2015 Author Share Posted September 24, 2015 (edited) So, paint. Taking advice from a post on Hyperscale (I think) i looked for a particular Ral color(i forgot which) Only producer of that in acrylic was Revell. Not a stranger to try something new i ordered a jar from an online seller in germany. What I got was possibly the worst designed container for paint imagineable. There is nothing to keep the lid in place. Just pressing it in place doesn't work so well because this cause over pressure pushing back. I will transfer the remaining paint to an eyedrop bottle. The paint in it was actually creamy in consistency and need be diluted. Another problem is that there is a tendency for separation of colors that is hard to do something about. A gray-blue color want to float on top and you would have to stir constantly to get it to mix! All the messy paint, change of needle, and no wonder I also got a sticky trigger on my AB and had to cut yesterdays session short... Got the rest of the ground covered today, so to speak. I forgot to dust off the model and will have to correct that. Post shading should cover the traces of any correction work. Edited September 24, 2015 by Hardcore Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hardcore Posted October 11, 2015 Author Share Posted October 11, 2015 Last time i sat at the workbench i test fitted the resin spinner. Natural thing to do you know, even if it will be attached last. Of course it didn't fit. It is made by Roy for the Revell kit and is about 1mm to wide. This is no disaster but the original is so bad that i have to figure out a solution. I'll post a photo later in the week. Preparing the surface for decals i polished it a bit. It appears i still need to buy a fan spray... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hardcore Posted October 15, 2015 Author Share Posted October 15, 2015 (edited) After one or two more coats of future it is time for decals. They are made by sky's decals and cost a small fortune. For avia machines in Israel they seem to be the only producer so i had no alternatives. I am not too pleased by the setting of the tail band, I may splash more alcohol on it tomorrow. Otherwise the decals leave the backing paper after just a few second in water, and the opacity is great! I am really impressed by the picture quality. It is a Google Nexus 5 not a camera! Edited October 15, 2015 by Hardcore Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martinnfb Posted October 16, 2015 Share Posted October 16, 2015 Very nice . The shiny black is actually correct, you can call it RML 66 . And Roy's spinner will fit after you send down the nose of the model, well just a bit, it is long anyways. If that's out of the option I can send you MDC already completed with blades. Cheers Martin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hardcore Posted October 16, 2015 Author Share Posted October 16, 2015 hm, cutting the length? That is an interesting idea, thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martinnfb Posted October 16, 2015 Share Posted October 16, 2015 Not exactly cut it ,to sand it down 1.5 millimetre on a flat surface does the trick . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hardcore Posted October 18, 2015 Author Share Posted October 18, 2015 Bravely doing nose surgery today! Using some Tamiya tape to mark the area to be removed. I was not overly anal about the precision in the placement. I figured it would not make the propeller sit bad. Martinnfb 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martinnfb Posted October 18, 2015 Share Posted October 18, 2015 Now we're talking, well done! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hardcore Posted October 18, 2015 Author Share Posted October 18, 2015 Thank YOU for the suggestion! It worked very well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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