Gazzas Posted December 17, 2017 Share Posted December 17, 2017 HI Everyone, I have almost no experience with resin. The only thing I know is that it needs CA to glue it to things. Which putties will work for it? Already found one bubble in an exhaust pipe. Are Alclad paints ok? I've read the dust is toxic? Anything else you could tell me will be gratefully received. Thanks, Gaz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssculptor Posted December 17, 2017 Share Posted December 17, 2017 The dust of any of the resins is bad for a human being. Avoid it as best you can. When grinding or even heavy sanding any plastics I either work outdoors or if indoors I work by an open window with a fan blowing and me between the window and the fan. The stuff is dangerous when wet or dry. Just a personal preference but I use a real face mask when working with dust. I shave first and then put it on and grind away. Some modelers insist that those painting masks are good. You know, the ones with of thin styrofoam and a rubber band that holds it on. Aside from using those as linings for brassieres I cannot think of any reason for their existence. Gazzas and Jack 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzas Posted December 17, 2017 Author Share Posted December 17, 2017 The dust of any of the resins is bad for a human being. Avoid it as best you can. When grinding or even heavy sanding any plastics I either work outdoors or if indoors I work by an open window with a fan blowing and me between the window and the fan. The stuff is dangerous when wet or dry. Just a personal preference but I use a real face mask when working with dust. I shave first and then put it on and grind away. Some modelers insist that those painting masks are good. You know, the ones with of thin styrofoam and a rubber band that holds it on. Aside from using those as linings for brassieres I cannot think of any reason for their existence. I have a narrow and long-ish nose. Those paper filter masks just channel the dust into the gaps between cheek, nose, and mask no matter how much bend I put on that little metal strip. I think I'll invest in a new filter for my heavy duty DIY mask. Cheers, Gaz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark M Posted December 17, 2017 Share Posted December 17, 2017 prime the resin before alclad, or infact any paint as the resin is often greasy Gazzas 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssculptor Posted December 17, 2017 Share Posted December 17, 2017 I do not understand why people insist on not protecting themselves. I use a half face mask that has screw-in filters, which I replace periodically. Its my life and my health. You all go do what you want. But then again, I will never use a CPAP mask, air hose and air pump when I sleep. So to avoid being a complete hypocrite I will stop preaching. What the hell, no one lives forever. Gazzas 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-Man Posted December 18, 2017 Share Posted December 18, 2017 I work in an auto body shop and the fillers we use all have resin. Whenever I'm sanding, I wear a 3M P100 Particulate Respirator. You can get them at Home Depot, they have two pink filters that screw on the sides. A dust mask just doesn't seal as well and doesn't filter anything. Kagemusha, Gazzas and paul fisher 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wunwinglow Posted December 18, 2017 Share Posted December 18, 2017 But those flimsy dust masks are brilliant at keeping the latest duck flu virus at bay, clearly....... Gazzas 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wouter Posted December 18, 2017 Share Posted December 18, 2017 Please use protection. The first times I worked with resin I didn't, but after some time I started to get nose bleedings out of nowhere. After I finished my model and cleaned my workplace that stopped. So I can certainly say from first hand experience that resin dust is not good for you. I now use protection every time I need to sand, saw or otherwise work with resin. Jack and Gazzas 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peterpools Posted December 18, 2017 Share Posted December 18, 2017 (edited) Hi Gaz I use resin on almost every build for years including major conversions and full resin kits. For fillers, all the popular ones work just fine: Tamiya, Squadron and Bondo. Just treat it like plastic except for gluing which requires CCA. You name the paint and I shot it on with absolutely no problems. Prepare the surface as normal; I prime exteriors and don't prime interiors and paint away. No problems to report. I find there is way to much made of painting resin - balderdash! Just thoroughly wash the resin as it tends to have more release agent which does effect the paint adhesion. I done a million Alclad and AK NMF finishes on resin parts and models - no problems at all. I prime for all NMF these days with Mr Color Gloss Black (preferred) or Tamiya Gloss Black, let dry and then it's NMF time. If I can help with any specific info, just let me know. What's the scoop? Peter Edited December 18, 2017 by Peterpools Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert Boillot Posted December 18, 2017 Share Posted December 18, 2017 (edited) All of the above about protection, plus : For gluing, remember the characteristics of the glues you use. CA has tremendous tensile strength, but very weak shear strength. I.e. pulling apart two parts glued with CA in a direction perpendicular to the glued surface (think two fingers for instance ) will be very difficult. Prying them apart by rotating the parts along the glue joint not so ... If you want good shear strength, use two-component epoxy glue, the "ultimate" one being JB Weld. For filling, epoxy-based filler like Milliput is good, as is a mix of CA and ballast (like talcum powder of glass beads) in small bubble-holes. Hubert Edited December 18, 2017 by MostlyRacers Jack, Rick Griewski and Gazzas 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Griewski Posted December 18, 2017 Share Posted December 18, 2017 Or you can just wet sand. And... Take care to rinse the sand paper and all surfaces well or the dust creeps in over time. Rick Gazzas and Jack 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jking207 Posted December 20, 2017 Share Posted December 20, 2017 I found a Dremel razor saw handy. They come packaged like PE would. MikeMaben and Gazzas 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssculptor Posted December 21, 2017 Share Posted December 21, 2017 Even if it absolutely helps prevent high blood pressure, heart disease, stroke, kidney disease, and early death (among other things)? You realize that very few people actually wear a mask these days? The new machines are MUCH improved over ones from even a couple of years ago. Completely automated, virtually silent, and with the nasal prongs, no mask to bother you. Hmmmmm. I will have to look into that. The old ones would have been great if I were still 10 years old. With all that paraphernalia on my head I felt like, and looked like, a pilot of a B-24 every time I put it on. As a child I could have had lots of fun pretending I was flying long distance missions at high altitude. But not as an adult. Also, at my age I wake and make several trips to the latrine, or chamber pot, every night. That seems to be common to old geezers my age. Ir is hard enough to get to the john in time without leaving a yellow trail on the floor behind me. But to have to unhook all that equipment while half asleep is just asking too much of a mere mortal. I will look into the new CPAP gizmos and see if I can adapt to them Thanks for the info. Whoops, excuse me, gotta go! Gangway, here I come! Gazzas 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dennismcc Posted December 21, 2017 Share Posted December 21, 2017 For bubbles in resin I normally try to glue some plastic rod into the hole, cut it off and sand, I did have problems with lots and lots of tiny air bubbles in the wings of a kit this was cured using Mr Surfacer 1200, I applied it with an AB but I got better results using a cocktail stick. Lots of air bubbles After Mr Surfacer For warped parts holding them under hot water and bending them back in shape works wonders. Cheers Dennis Gazzas 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzas Posted December 21, 2017 Author Share Posted December 21, 2017 Nice work on those air bubbles! Thanks for the tips! Gaz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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