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Hi, I've noticed in a number of WIP posts that a lot of modelers use cutting wheels, etc for cutting out small intricate parts from either plastic stock or metal. A suggestion would be to get a jewelers saw. It's like a coping saw but with very very fine teeth on a very thin blade. The saws cost about $15, and you buy blades in packs of a dozen for about $6-8. The blades will cut through even hardened steel so plastic, brass, aluminum, etc is a breeze. Plus with the blades being so thin you can cut really tight curves and intricate shapes easily without having to nibble away big chunks of material with a demel wheel. Plus you don't get melted plastic that sometimes happen with power tools and the cut is so fine there's very little if no saw marks in your material.

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At last!  Somebody ELSE has twigged that metalworking tools are good for plastic.  I've been on about this for years.

Also files instead of sanding everything. I use files first, then I scrape wherever possible and only finish with wet'n'dry.

 

I don't even possess a razor saw. I have no more luck with those than a full size tenon saw.  Junior hacksaw or the above piercing (jewellers') saw every time.

 

Martin

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Hi, I've noticed in a number of WIP posts that a lot of modelers use cutting wheels, etc for cutting out small intricate parts from either plastic stock or metal. A suggestion would be to get a jewelers saw. It's like a coping saw but with very very fine teeth on a very thin blade. The saws cost about $15, and you buy blades in packs of a dozen for about $6-8. The blades will cut through even hardened steel so plastic, brass, aluminum, etc is a breeze. Plus with the blades being so thin you can cut really tight curves and intricate shapes easily without having to nibble away big chunks of material with a demel wheel. Plus you don't get melted plastic that sometimes happen with power tools and the cut is so fine there's very little if no saw marks in your material.

 

Thanks for sharing!  But where do you find these tools,  Amazon?  Can you suggest any links?  It seems the vendors are making parts smaller and more delicate and the usual razor blade/Xuron cutters don't always do the job the way I'd like.  Plus sounds like it would be awesome for removing the resin pedestals as well.

 

Cheers,

Chris 

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Hi, I've noticed in a number of WIP posts that a lot of modelers use cutting wheels, etc for cutting out small intricate parts from either plastic stock or metal. A suggestion would be to get a jewelers saw. It's like a coping saw but with very very fine teeth on a very thin blade. The saws cost about $15, and you buy blades in packs of a dozen for about $6-8. The blades will cut through even hardened steel so plastic, brass, aluminum, etc is a breeze. Plus with the blades being so thin you can cut really tight curves and intricate shapes easily without having to nibble away big chunks of material with a demel wheel. Plus you don't get melted plastic that sometimes happen with power tools and the cut is so fine there's very little if no saw marks in your material.

 

Correct, love my jewelers saw.

 

Steve

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Depending where you are, Squires in UK or Chronos or just look em up on ebay.  But look up "Piercing Saw".  My last purchase of blades was from there.  I have 2 piercing saws, one with coarse teeth for resin, etc., one with fine blade for brass and nickel silver.  Rub the blade with wax if you're using ally.

 

Swiss files can be found at Sunday Markets often for pennies.  Sorry I don't know what the equivalent is abroad.

 

Martin

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Personally, I generally use razor-blade thin saws. The blades really look like shaving ones with small teeth. They are made in Eastern Europe and are quite fragile but give the best possible control and are an excellent way to avoid damaging parts because the cut is the finest you can get.

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Hehe, yes, but....they cut best when the teeth face downwards,<G>.

 

BTW, these saws cut best when the teeth face backwards, so they cut on the pull stroke, keeping the blade in tension.  Ideally you should try to keep at least 1 1/2 teeth across the thickness of whatever you're cutting.  Let the saw cut as it wishes, never force it. Those blades are fragile.

 

Martin

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