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Photoetch and paint


ShotMagnet

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I've worked with PE on a couple of kits, but I've always had trouble with paint adhering in something like a permanent manner to the PE parts.

 

I'd welcome advice in this matter.

 

Apologies if this has already been talked about, but the LSP discussion forum is 1335 pages long.

 

 

 

Shot

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header_87061.jpg

 

Cleaning, degreasing the PE parts also helps, as well as slightly sanding them a bit with a fine grain.

And of course, a good metal primer.

 

For most of my builds where i used PE parts, i just primed them with a coat of surfacer and did not had any problem. I only used the Tamiya metal primer spraycan on a few parts, as i usually dont even need it (i keep it for the most desperate cases !)

Edited by Zero77
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Metal, all metal, needs to be primed in order to make paint adhere. Many model paint manufacturers make metal primers, such as Tamiya, Vallejo and even Games Workshop (for their white metal figures). 

HTH 

Radu 

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An etching primer is best for metal. These paints include a chemical, phosphoric acid for example, which cleans and roughens the metal surface so the paint has a better 'key' to the surface. Some also chemically bond to the surface. Zinc chromate primers are a good example of that. If you use some, wear breathing protection! And make sure you are using an etching primer, not just a normal paint coloured to look like chromate primer!!

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  • 3 weeks later...

I use Tamiya metal primer on all bare metal surfaces. Usually with photo etch, I shoot the entire sheet of PE parts as a group both back and front. Then when I use the parts, I spray a primer like Tamiya primer on the whole surface to be painted. This seems to work pretty well.

 

I like to put metal primer on before I handle the parts to reduce body oils or any other contamination from my hands. Sometimes I clean the parts first also with a heavy duty thinner to attempt to remove any chemical residue on the parts first. I think the parts are a little easier to not have my finger prints imbedded in them in this manner.

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I have a bottle of something called 'Blacken It', which I thought was an etchant. If so, either I'm using it wrong (strong possibility) or it doesn't work on all metal (also possible) or some combination of the two. I have found however that even on brass, it either doesn't provide the right kind of tooth for the paint, or I'm doing something wrong with the paint.

 

I typically use acrylics, though for the PE in question I used rattle-can enamels. In neither case does the paint adhere more than minimally, and seems flake off if you so much as look at it.

 

I've taken note of the stratagems mentioned here, however. I'll give them a try.

 

 

Shot

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  • 5 months later...

I had similar issues. Following some forum advice I'm now washing them in household vinegar and then priming with acid etching automotive primer. Problem solved. This is just one solution but it worked for me. Previously I had trouble getting paint to cover completely, even when using testors enamels, and they always stuck to anything it seemed.

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  • 1 month later...

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