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Not sure where I saw this method, it was online somewhere.  Worked quite well.  Kudos to the unknown modeller.

 

TRU_P40BWheelWell.02.jpg

All dry, time for some cutting.

 

TRU_P40BWheelWell.03.jpg

Gentle pressure slight twist, lift and remove.

 

TRU_P40BWheelWell.04.jpg

This just might work.

 

TRU_P40BWheelWell.05.jpg

Fit good.

 

TRU_P40BWheelWell.06.jpg

Carefully draw cut line.

 

TRU_P40BWheelWell.07.jpg

A little more work required.  Will punch styrene dots for fasteners.

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More work on the wheel wells.

TRU_P40WheelWell.11.jpg

Using .25mm (.010") styrene card I punch out 1.9 dia and 1.25 hex for canvas wheel well attach points.

 

TRU_P40WheelWell.09.jpg

 

TRU_P40WheelWell.10.jpg

I secured the discs with white glue then the hex nuts secured with thin cement.

 

There will be plenty of debate regarding the arrangement of the canvas secure points.  I've seen photos of the canvas boot secured tight as a drum head with multiple fasteners and canvas boot secured with no apparent fasteners and the canvas boot looks like the roof liner of my VW draping on my head.

 

This is how I will represent the canvas wheel well boot liner.

 

TRU_P40WheelWell.08.jpg

Test fit looks good.  After I button up the wings I will do a final trim and paint the canvas covers (boot).

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  • 2 weeks later...

To say I have a love hate relationship with photo etch is an understatement.  Using Eduard's interior the seat an belts are put together.  Textile belts, RB and HGW, have spoiled me so.

 

TRU_P40Seat.04.jpg

Seat bended, folded painted and some light weathering along with the lap belts.  Now to do some aggressive bending and secure with epoxy.

 

TRU_P40Seat.02.jpg

Belts bended and secured with epoxy.

 

TRU_P40Seat.01.jpg

Apologizes for crummy pics.  Some final touch up and weathering then on to final cockpit work.

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Guest Peterpools

Hi Rick

Look what happens when the doc gives you a bit more 'standing' time! :fight:

Sure blew my first post on the interior and that should be a lesson for me to read each caption a lot more carefully. Using the Lone Star set and the kit floor for templates plus the Eduard PE set work out perfectly - not to mention a boatload of skill and patience.

I was completely mystified where you were going at first but the boots are simply awesome.

The seat and seatbelts ... wow absolutely beautiful looking, Thumbs up on some super work.

May I ask were you purchased both punch sets as I'll like to purchase one of each.

Keep 'em coming

Peter

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Hi Rick

Look what happens when the doc gives you a bit more 'standing' time! :fight:

Sure blew my first post on the interior and that should be a lesson for me to read each caption a lot more carefully. Using the Lone Star set and the kit floor for templates plus the Eduard PE set work out perfectly - not to mention a boatload of skill and patience.

I was completely mystified where you were going at first but the boots are simply awesome.

The seat and seatbelts ... wow absolutely beautiful looking, Thumbs up on some super work.

May I ask were you purchased both punch sets as I'll like to purchase one of each.

Keep 'em coming

Peter

Thanks Peter.

 

The punch sets are RP Toolz LSP Review, RP Toolz website.  You may purchase directly from RP Toolz or UMM-USA

 

You may also see these on Amazon, eBay and other online hobby shops.

 

They are a little pricey.  However, the manufacturing is very well done and I expect these to last until the next apocalypse.

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Kit came without N-2A gunsight so it's back to some scratchin'.

TRU_P40N-2A_02.JPG.96aa7d636955655a97f73

2.4mm styrene tube with a .3mm x 2.0mm strip wrapped around top for lens.  Then a 2.5mm disc and 2.0mm disc are punched out of styrene card and placed on top of lens cover to replicate removable cap.  Cap strap created using a piece of flattened out .3mm lead wire.

A 1mm rod is slid inside the tube to serve as a mounting pin.

 

TRU_P40N-2A_01.JPG.52530e9b9ef6de4eab074

 

TRU_P40N-2A_03.JPG.539ddbb156fa150651ff4

 

TRU_P40N-2A_04.JPG.548407463fefe6f25cb8e

Test fits looks good.  It's hard to see, trust me it's there, the lens cover cap is touched off with a secure nut punched out of styrene card.  Off to the paint shop.

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