JRutman Posted March 3, 2011 Share Posted March 3, 2011 Don't worry, no need to look for anything ! I'm just happy if you are happy with it ! I dont' know if it is the lack of oxygen with the altitude or if there are some connection failure somewhere between my ears... No matter either memories or orientation are concerned ! ... but I've my opinion about it So : your trick works just fine ! Quick and easy with a good working base (and this Hasegawa kit is !) I know,all kidding aside,the latest run of Hasegawa kits I think are the perfect bussiness model. You offer a kit that is accurate in shape and has decent surface detail with good interior details,decals and a reasonable price. If you want super accurate and detailed cockpits then it's your choice to buy one which keeps the cost of the original kit down. Well,I like the concept anyway. Your Wurger is looking good buddy, J Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supermario Posted March 6, 2011 Author Share Posted March 6, 2011 Thanks Jerry "(but there is nothing much yet on this build...) I agree with you about these kits ! It can also be a good mental and painting exercise to work only with what you have. Just relax and have fun ! ... According to Roger's infos, the outer position canons have been removed on "yellow 7". Fairings and ejection chutes have been coverd either with metallic plates or simply adhesive (I'm right Roger ?) 'think it would look nice having the camo/paint added with some red primer covered tape there... 'will see. So the wings ejection chutes were removed and the openings for the kit's canon fairing (roughly) opened. The fairing parts will be added once the wings are assembled The fuselage is also closed now. NTR. With some attention, it only needed some brush applied primer to hide the jointure. BTW Does someone know if there is a pannel line running on top of the fuse', from the canopy to the back ? (the drawings I've got show all the antenna wire which creates some confusion to me...) Here we have the problem of this kit I mentioned before. I decided to add some plastic card to the wing roots which was "sinked" into the fuselage shape with some automotive putty, diluted with acetone to allow it to be applied with a brush (simple, quick, reliable and cheap stuff) Roughly sanded (the final "touch" will be done when it comes to the assembling) WW painting went forward, so I could assemble the wings. ... soon ready for some bigger assembling ! TBC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
automaton Posted March 6, 2011 Share Posted March 6, 2011 Does someone know if there is a pannel line running on top of the fuse', from the canopy to the back ? (the drawings I've got show all the antenna wire which creates some confusion to me...) Hi Roland There is a panel line running along the top of the spine, it's offset slightly to starboard of center. I'd post a photo of it, but it's in a copyrighted book, so I'm afraid of running afoul of LSP's copyright rules. Your build is looking great, great rivetting and "bodywork". Will be watching this one with interest. Regards; Automaton Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRutman Posted March 6, 2011 Share Posted March 6, 2011 There is a panel line on the spine. It lines up with the side of the cut out at the trailing edge of the canopy opening. You can only see this slot when the canopy is closed. J Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martinnfb Posted March 6, 2011 Share Posted March 6, 2011 (edited) the sheet aluminum is connected into a overlapping joint Edited March 6, 2011 by Martinnfb Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VintageEagle Posted March 7, 2011 Share Posted March 7, 2011 Hi Roland, That is looking great! :-) Can't wait to see the completed model. The riveting tool is really ingenious. On the wartime photo one can only see that the outboard MG 151 were not installed, but it is not clear if the opening was covered by sheet metal, a piece of fabric or if it was left open. I would "guesstimate" that it was closed with a piece of fabric or tape to prevent water getting inside the wing. I should have all decals and instructions freshly from the printing companies by latest next week :-) Cheers, Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supermario Posted March 8, 2011 Author Share Posted March 8, 2011 Thank you gents for your advices ! In fact Hasegawa catched this very well. The fuselage halves are separated following this particular excentered panel line ! Ignoring it, I first filled this panel line Martin, your photo is a great illustration ! and a great help, it shows well the stressed skin ! … This would be something to try to reproduce ! (why not in 1/24 scale as far as I'm concerned hihihi) (...) On the wartime photo one can only see that the outboard MG 151 were not installed, but it is not clear if the opening was covered by sheet metal, a piece of fabric or if it was left open. I would "guesstimate" that it was closed with a piece of fabric or tape to prevent water getting inside the wing. I should have all decals and instructions freshly from the printing companies by latest next week Cheers, Roger If I'm right, removing of the outboard canons was a way to gain weight and increase speed performance ? If so, I would be surprised if those open (useless) "holes" would not have been covered in a way or an other... PS. Can't wait to see those decals ! (but at least, it gives me one week more to try to finish the airframe... ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supermario Posted March 15, 2011 Author Share Posted March 15, 2011 Hi ! Back with some condensed progress. In fact, not easy for me to make the decision about what to show about this OOB build without being boring and not only to match more or less the kit's instructions... I hope it's still OK 'till she's ready for the paint. So, next I attached the outer canon parts. The parts were left intact to ease gluing and alignement. Once dry, some brush applied diluted putty was used for the finish. The canon was then cutted and the fairing drilled out. The last dry fit of the engine cowlings. 'begins to look ok Dry fitting of the wings and lower center section. NTR. Add some glue and this is done too Just a light "rough" sanding was needed (#360 grid). A (very) small amount of putty will only be needed at the wing roots Canon fairings "cleaned" ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supermario Posted March 15, 2011 Author Share Posted March 15, 2011 ... Exhausts are glued on the engine cowlings (fitted to the airframe and not to the kit's locating tabs !) And "riveting" finished As it looks I have the time to do it, I decided to seperate the rear control surfaces. Easy to do it and it finally not really time consuming (I try to show it step by step here...) First carfully cut off the control surface from the 4 parts (halves) with a sharp hobby knife (watch out your fingers !!!!). I prefer the hobby knife as it is quicker that a razor saw and don't remove as much plastic as a scriber would (we need as less as possible material to be gone). Then the parts are glued together (the "cut" is still rough) (with the usual "clumsy-fingers-incidents"... ) The parts (cutted area) "cleaned" Then the mobile part is "V shaped/filed" on the side you want to incline it (here upward - tail wheel locking on the Fw). I took the photo as it is still roughly done and not straight son I hope one can better see what I mean… I forgott to take a photo of the fixed part of the aileron. This one was "U shaped" (with a round file) at the mobile part attachement, so one part fits into the other. But one can notice it on a comming pic But, once finished, and fitted, it allows you this ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supermario Posted March 15, 2011 Author Share Posted March 15, 2011 ... There was also a large gap at the between the lower wing part and the fuselage. Easy to fill with some plastic chutes. The assembly will need some putty too, as the wing lower part is rounder than the fuselage... An other mille stone is set as the main assembling work is done Corrections at the wing root / engine cowling worked fine (some gaps have still to be filled and rescribed) To end this update, some closer views of the results with the "home made Rosie". The whole riveting was sanded with medium sanding stick to have it flush and not too much pronounced once the paint is on it. Sanding dust make the "rivets" pop out (BTW, one can also notice the "U shaped" aileron I talked about before) ... nothing more right now Finish the upper gun cowling is the next step and then "sanding-cleaning-filling-rescribing-sanding" to have it ready for the paint ! TBC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted March 15, 2011 Share Posted March 15, 2011 Never boring Roland! Love watching you work, OOB or OTT (over-the-top). Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supermario Posted March 15, 2011 Author Share Posted March 15, 2011 Thank you Kev ! As said, I'm a bit worried about makin the WIP look different from a simple photo illustration of the instructions... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supermario Posted March 26, 2011 Author Share Posted March 26, 2011 Hi ! 'think it's more than time for an update ! The tail was completed (no big deal) Then I noticed Hasegawa's ETC501 rack was too long - according to the Kagero drawings I'm refering to (it should end at the large quick access hatch). I don't know what's exactly too long on this part, but I simply cut 5mm at his front to get the correct overall lenght Some details have been added to the ETC rack and the additionnal tank As most photos of this kind of fueltanks I've got, they were looking rather damaged... so I "damaged" mine too (here it's bare - just scraped some plastic off with the hobby knive) Sanded, polished and some Alclad on it Poor pic... but something's wrong with the paint ! If I can't do much for the photos, this one made me notice there must be a problem with my airbrush! (had already this feeling while spraying the paint...) Alclad really should never come out that rough on polished plastic... most probably a damaged needle and/or nozzle ! ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supermario Posted March 26, 2011 Author Share Posted March 26, 2011 ... Whatever... Some aluminum paint was sprayed too on the reworked seems and on some spots for the future weathering ... that paint (Alclad) is really unforgiving ! After this was set right and repainted, an aluminium base coat was also applied on the undersurfaces (mainly left unpainted on this AC). I will work a bit more on this once the major paint is done. Green noze Focke Wulf More to come very quickly, I recieved the decals and dry transfers, and I have 2 days left for the paint! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supermario Posted March 26, 2011 Author Share Posted March 26, 2011 BTW It has nothing to do here... but just for fun : the main reason for the delay ... Vacation, nice weather, fresh snow and only at most an hour driving to reach some of the greatest ski resorts / ski tour areas in the Alps... That Rocks !!! (sorry, Iphone pics...) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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