1/32 Revell Fw 190 F-8 & A-8: Working on the wheel wells!

[shepard]

very interested on this build... what do you say about the kit?

[VintageEagle]

Thank you. As this kit is my first in over 20 years, I am probably not the best to judge the kit. But I'd say it is average in terms of fit, but as far as I can tell very accurate in terms of dimensions. Details are probably also average (the Hasegawa one is slightly better), but with detail sets and some manual detailing this is not an issue.

 

I wanted to continue with painting the cockpit, but realised that I first need to prepare both fuselage sections for joining (tail wheel installation, rivets, etc.). I will then join the halves, install the cover above the gunsight and do dry fitting of the cockpit to ensure everything fits before I then finish the cockpit. Otherwise, I'll end up with a finished cockpit that doesn't properly fit into the fuselage.

 

I'd like to add rivets using the MDC riveting tool. This may be a challenge I should't take for the first build after 20+ years, but I'd rather like to do it properly. Does anybody have any recommendation how to do this most efficiently? Using the MDC template for a constant rivet distance? Or manually using tape to have a straight line?

 

Cheers,

Roger

[VintageEagle]

G'd morning,

 

OK, I have spent some time to first lighten up the RLM 66 and then to experiment a bit with different weathering methods. Remember, it's all new to me after I finished my last model more than 20 years ago.

 

I was first trying to figure out the painting sequence and came up with the following:

 

1 Paint in acrylics

2 Drybrush (in enmael?)

3 Paint details

4 Add moderate chipping to the floor using an artist pencil

5 Add dirt on the floor

6 Add an enmael-based black wash

7 Apply a clear coat Tamiya acrylics

8 Apply instrument decals

9 Apply a flat coat (Vallejo)

 

Quite a few steps for such a small part that will mostly disappear in the fuselage. Now to the execution. I used the Revell cockpit to experiment a bit. Here's what I have tried so far:

 

DRYBRUSIHING:

I already struggled with drybrushing. This is a method I used already 20 years ago, but for some reason it didn't work properly this time. Maybe because I was trying to use enmael over acrylics? The edges became shiny, but not really lighter as almost no paint was deposited. Maybe I used the wrong paint or should have waited longer so that the brush dries a bit more before I started. Any good advice?

 

WASH:

I used an AK Interactive black wash and applied it with a small brush, which worked quite well. I didn't even have to remove the excess, but could merge the wash with the brush.

 

DIRT:

I used a sand colored wash by AK Interactive that I applied with a small brush to the cockpit floow. The color was probably a bit too light. Anyhow, it worked also quite well, but I remember having seen better results, but I don't know how they were achieved (possibly pastel or pigments?).

 

CHIPPING:

I applied very moderate chipping using a silver pencil. It worked well, but the chips are not as sharp edged as you probably can achieve using other methods. What are your recommendations for chipping inside the cockpit?

 

SHADING:

I haven't tried it yet, but was considering using the airbrush and highly diluted black paint to add some shades to panel and corners. Will have to try it I guess.

 

Spent a whole evening for what is probably basics for most of you, but that's part of the learning. Next time I will know a bit more and be a bit faster. Would appreciate your thoughts about how best to weather the cockpit (not overdone, but still adding depth and character).

 

Cheers,

Roger

 

Edited August 29, 2017 by VintageEagle

[LSP_Kevin]

The primary secret to successful drybrushing is to ensure that the target surface is quite matt (flat). This gives the pigments on the brush something to grip to as you work them around. It's quite difficult to achieve any worthwhile effect over a satin surface, and it practically doesn't work at all over a gloss one.

 

With washes - particularly where you're trying to create shadows rather than dirt - quite the opposite is true.

 

Kev

[VintageEagle]

Thanks Kev. I think you nailed the issue. I will try to first apply a flat coat. So, here's the adjusted sequence I will try:

 

1 Paint in acrylics RLM 66 Mr. Color

2 Airbrush shading, moderately applied (highly diluted black acrylics)

3 Wash (AK Interactive)

4 Flat coat (Vallejo)

5 Drybrushing with Enmael 

6 Detail painting with a brush

7 Chipping with a silver artist pencil

8 Clear coat (Tamiya)

9 Decals with Microsol/set

10 Flat coat (Vallejo)

 

I will be back with the results soon.

 

Cheers,

Roger

[G-Man]

Nice start! For my cockpits, I spray silver first, let it dry a day, then put my base color down. As soon as the paint tacks up, I use a toothpick to chip and scratch up the base, exposing the silver and giving it depth. Once that is dry, I spray gloss clear, let it dry a day, then apply an AK wash. Let that dry a day, and finally spray it with flat clear to seal it. I always close my cockpits so I don't go overboard with detailing. And I use Mr. Color paints in case you're wondering.

[Mark M]

[VintageEagle]

Hi G-Man,

 

Thanks. I haven't applied a silver base and therefore couldn't use this chipping method. I tried a silver pencil, but it didn't give satisfying results (not very sharp edged scratches). I tried to apply silver paint with a very fine brush, but again the result was not so convincing to me. So, in the end I decided not to add any scratches. I didn't want to mess up with the cockpit to ensure that I don't lose motiviation.

 

In addition, looking at a wartime color shot of a captured Fw 190 G-3 cockpit (from the J. Ethell collection), I could hardly see any scratches in the cockpit, but what was much more prominent was the dirt on the floor from soil on the pilot's (and GI's) boots. I therefore tried to recreate this dirt using a light earth wash and it turned out reasonably well.

 

I have used water colors for applying details and dry brushing. Both worked very well. The dry brushed effect was toned down when I applied the gloss coat before applying the decals, but I may dry brush the cockpit once more after the final flat coat. I applied the decals using Microsol/soft (having tried similar products from Tamyia, Revell and Vallejo, the old Microsol/soft still gave me the best results). I have also dry fitted the cockpit into the fuselage and am 90% done with this task. As @monthebiff pointed out in post 12, the lower instrument panel indeed required some trimming to fit the fuselage.

 

It's incredible how many hours just finishing the cockpit took me, but I guess I will be much faster next time as I experimented with different methods this time. I will post pictures once I have applied the flat coat (hopefully tonight). I am quite happy how it turned out so far considering that it is my first one in years.

 

Roger

[G-Man]

I am in the same boat as you Roger, as I am only on my second model ever. I did a 1/48 Bf 109E first and am now working on a 1/32 version as it builds easier and pops more in my collection.

 

For decals, I have never tried Micosol, I use Mr. Mark Setter and Mr. Mark Softer. They work beautifully and make the decals appear painted on.

 

And I know what you mean about the cockpit taking forever. I spend the most time completing the cockpit and filling seams. Hence they are my most disliked aspects of model making.

[VintageEagle]

Good evening,

 

So, finally I can post two photos. Note that I have not yet added all the bits and pieces (control stick, rudders, some handles and levers, belts, auxiliary panel to the lower instrument panel) yet as I first want to finish dry fitting it into the fuselage in order not to risk breaking off some small parts. I also haven't managed to apply the flat coat yet. After the flat coat, I also plan to add clear coats over the individual instrument dials.

 

Note the dirt on the floor. German instrument panels usually had the electrical wiring diagram codes of the instruments painted onto the panel. I tried to recreate this by applying some tiny white dots and dashes with a very sharp brush. Electrical cables were usually wrapped by yellow plastic at the end of the war, which I also tried to recreate. I will add some more drybrushing / shading to the leather cushion as it looks to flat right now.

 

One questions I have for you experts: I have tried Tamiya, Mr. Color and Vallejo flat coats tonight, but none of them were really flat. I may have used the wrong mixture or thinner as I have read very positive things about e.g. the Vallejo flat coat. What do you usually use to seal the cockpit (flat, satin, which brand, which mixture)?

 

G-Man, I have to try Mr. Mark Setter and Mr. Mark Softer then. When I wanted to buy it at the local hobby store it was sold out and I went for the other brands, but I have heard good things about the two Mr. Marks. At least when the cockpit, filling and sanding is done, the fun part can begin. Better to start with the hard work and then the fun :-)

 

Cheers,

 

Roger

 

 

 

[Mark M]

this looks fantastic, i have this kit in the pile and ill use this thread as my guide   

[LSP_Kevin]

That really does look brilliant, Roger!

 

Kev

[Gazzas]

Wow, that cockpit looks awesome!

[LSP_Ron]

That really does look brilliant, Roger!

 

Kev

Agreed

[G-Man]

That pit looks fantastic! As for your question about sealing the cockpit, I use Mr. Color flat clear. I use Mr. Leveling Thinner, and mix it at a 2 parts thinner to 1 part clear ratio. Always looks flat once dry.