John F Smith Posted March 30, 2016 Share Posted March 30, 2016 Looking very good, Brian. I'm certainly following this one very closely because the one in my stash is calling my name! John Out2gtcha 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted March 30, 2016 Author Share Posted March 30, 2016 Looking very good, Brian. I'm certainly following this one very closely because the one in my stash is calling my name! John Thanks John! Its been a bit of an issue getting bench time this week, but not because of Blue (my Jeep) but more due to personal drama (which I ABHOR). I really think the kit is great fitting, and any issues I have seen or encountered so far, are fairly minor ones considering the cost of the kit, and how well it fits, as well as the overall shape/outline of the kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted April 8, 2016 Author Share Posted April 8, 2016 Ok, FINALLY! A bit O progress.............. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted April 8, 2016 Author Share Posted April 8, 2016 Ah phooey! Pics will have to wait till after lunch...........Im hungry! Will post some pics of progress when Im back from lunch Uncarina 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted April 8, 2016 Author Share Posted April 8, 2016 Ok on to it then! I started off by proceeding on the VERY OOB cockpit...............and some good news...............SUCCESS! I DID in fact get the OOB KHM side console decals to cooperate enough to be laid down over the existing molded on detail. YAY! I knew it almost certainly would, and just like most of the other KHM decals, these conformed no issue. I put down some MS Sol, prior to the decal being laid down, pushed it into the nooks and crannies with a Q-tip, then doused the HELL out of it with some Solvaset. Even though it looked funky on the sheet, the weird blue/gray color on the IP and side consoles doesnt look too bad at all, and actually kinda sets the DGG pit off a bit: Throttle, trim, flap, mix handles will be added to the port side console after the gloss and wash: Even in situ, the pit still fits great. This im not shocked about as all the new gen KHM kits Ive built, really do fit VERY well after some minor flash trimming. The pit in the T-28 fits like a well sized glove, and this will all look much more natural, after a gloss coat, grime wash, then a flat coat to seal everything in : Next it was time to start the forward firewall/engine area. After seeing Herr Clunk stuggle to keep his Trojan on all 3 wheels, I decided here and now would be the point in time, to plan for where the extra weight would come from, to allow the T-28 to NOT sit on her tail. This was all a rough guesstimation on the extra weight needed, but I figured I wanted to put enough extra in to have 0 chance the T-28 would sit on her arese end........ To that end, I stared off by gluing in the two OOB weights, one on each side of the lower forward fuse (Again, JB Weld was used here as it is normally bomb-proof strong): After I got the two OOB weights installed, I came up with a solution for the additional weight needed. I figured ANY amount I added would benefit from getting put as far forward as possible to get the most bang for the weight. Figuring that this build for Glen was going to not only be a strictly OOB build, but Glen also indicated he wanted things all "closed up", so by that reckoning, the engine cowl panels, and the firewall access panels behind them, would all be closed, and that space normally reserved for all the busy work behind the engine, would be perfect place for some extra weight. So thats exactly what I did.................. I cut off the bottom of one of the medicine cups I always use to mix paint, and roughed it up, so the glue would be sure to stick, then I cut out some notches for some of the molded on detail on the rear firewall: You can see here the cut out medicine cup that will soon be filled with a mix of JB Weld and #9 lead shot-gun shot, sandwiched between the forward firewall, and the rear fire-wall: Then, I filled the cut medicine cup up as far as I could with #9 lead shot. Then I dumped that amount of shot into a FULL medicine cup that had some pre-mixed JB Weld in it, and made a paste, so that each and every lead shot ball was coated in JB Weld, so I could be sure it would stick to its neighbor, and wouldn't have any "escapees"or rouge loose lead pellets later on. After I mixed up the correct amount of lead with the JB Weld, I used a tongue depressor to scoop the mix into the cut down medicine cup, then turned it upside down onto the fire-wall, so the JB Weld was going to get glued to fire-wall. I then sealed around the cup with some CA, to further make sure no lead pellets came out, then used a zip tie to ensure it all stayed together whilst drying: After checking it out, it turns out I added roughly 1.6 Oz, which sounds like a lot, but I think the nose gear can take it, and I REALLY wanted to make sure Glen didnt get a tail sitter: All for now lads, more pics soon. Cheers! Fooesboy, Uncarina, MikeC and 4 others 6 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirkE Posted April 8, 2016 Share Posted April 8, 2016 "Throttle, trim, flap, mix handles will be added to the port side console after the gloss and wash." Hmmm...stupid question: are they with the kit? Because they are missing in my instructions and I don't see them on the sprues. So I scratch built them.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted April 8, 2016 Author Share Posted April 8, 2016 "I don't see them on the sprues. So I scratch built them.... Me either, so that's my plan as well. Even in a strictly OOB build like mine, you cant stick to what's in the box when what you need isn't IN the box. Vandy 1 VX 4, Fooesboy, DirkE and 1 other 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Ron Posted April 8, 2016 Share Posted April 8, 2016 Looking great! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Ray Posted April 9, 2016 Share Posted April 9, 2016 Nice! The cockpit really looks good in its OOB form. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncarina Posted April 9, 2016 Share Posted April 9, 2016 It looks beautiful Brian! Great work! Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dennismcc Posted April 9, 2016 Share Posted April 9, 2016 That cockpit is looking great, nice one. Cheers Dennis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rotorhead Posted April 9, 2016 Share Posted April 9, 2016 Hey Brian, Great job on the cockpit so far. So good, in fact, that I've decided to not wait for a PE set and follow your lead on mine. OOB with some scratch details. On the "blue" cockpit, I have a friend who is a several thousand hour Navy flight instructor in the T-28 and he will undoubtedly point that out............but hey, I think it looks passable once not in the spotlight. The Eduard PE pits also tend to have a blue hue. Thanks for the encouragement of your Build. Regards Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottsGT Posted April 9, 2016 Share Posted April 9, 2016 Quick question, Brian. Which brand of hole punches are you using? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted April 9, 2016 Author Share Posted April 9, 2016 Thanks one and all for the encouraging comments! This one will be all OOB, but in this case, I really dont think that is a bad option at this point. Some of the restoration birds Ive seen at OshKosh (yeah I know, NEVER base your kit documentation off of a resto!) actually DO have a similar looking light blue/gray cockpit color, so maybe this is where KHM got their color from? Not sure, but any-who thanks for the compliments as it really does help the motivation dept. Quick question, Brian. Which brand of hole punches are you using? Did you mean which one I used for say the disks for the wing pylon plugs? If so they are actually two separate sets, both from UMM-USA: "Miniround" punch set - 0,6 ; 0,8 ; 1,0 ; 1,2 ; 1,4 ; 1,6 mm "Maxiround" punch set - 1,8 ; 2,0 ; 2,5 ; 3,0 ; 3,5 ; 4,0 mm DirkE 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dora9 Posted April 9, 2016 Share Posted April 9, 2016 Clever idea for the conterweight! I might use it on my next build! Keep up the good work! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now