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Trumpeter conversion to a Swordfish Mk III


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I have a horrible feeling this is all going to disappear under the first coat of paint.... But don't think it looks too bad just now! I might have to swing the rudder to disguise getting the second tape down slightly out of line from rudder to fin. Measure twice, check three times, cut once, still get it wrong.....

 

 

DSCN0735.jpg

 

I'm getting quicker at putting the tapes on, but an hour of 'stabbing' is more than enough. Slowly, slowly, catchee monkey, I suppose.

 

Thanks for the encouraging words, but do have a go; it isn't difficult, honest!

 

TTFN,

 

Tim P.

Edited by wunwinglow
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A bit more progress, the rib tape idea seems to work so far. After marking out in pencil where the ribs were, I used a sharp straight scalpel blade to create lines of little 'stabs' into the surface. I used an old Scale Aircraft Modelling etched scale rule to keep the lines straight and pitched evenly. Then the plastic surface was cleaned with a wipe of isopropanol (rubbing alcohol) to remove any greasy fingerprints. I brushed some Microscale Foil Adhesive onto the matt side of some kitchen aluminium foil (smooth type, not the textured stuff) and allowed to dry; 10 minutes or so. It clears when ready.

 

I found I could cut this up into strips a bit less than 1mm wide quite easily, using some big, sharp scissors, and with some practice it was possible to keep them fairly consistant in width. Now the tricky bit. With the model part held down so it can't move, and using two pairs of tweezers, the strip is positioned over the line of nicks. A slight tap down will tack the strip temporarily in place, then you can realign it by CAREFULLY lifting and re-attaching it. When happy with the position, a quick firm wipe with a soft cloth (I used some spectacle cleaning cloth) burnish the tape down, and bingo, the little nicks show through as stitches, with the foil making the rib tape.

 

It is all a bit delicate at this point, so once I had done one side of the tailplane, I brushed some Future onto each strip to seal it. I'll blow some primer over the whole lot once the Future has dried.

 

Points to watch; leave one end of of the foil patch uncoated with glue, so you can handle it. Make sure the lines of nicks are where you want them, because if they are out of line, pitch or not square/parallel when they should be, it screams at you!! And they will be fiddly to fill and repair if they are in the wrong place. For example, see the 4th tape in from the right. No, I'm not going to fix it, it is on the underside, so only I will know about it. And you, dear reader....

 

Marking out takes the longest time, but once you get stabbing and taping, it happens quite quickly. I did all the stabs, then all the tapes, because I doubt if the tapes would stand having an etched rule pressed onto them when you do the next tape!

 

Only thing to do now, is plough on with the rest of the airframe. Wish me luck!

 

DSCN0719.jpg

 

Tim P

 

I really like what you've done...you've just about shamed me into sanding my wings and going for the tin foil strips, also. I thought about maybe trying Tamiya tape, but am not sure it would say on and is probably to thick.

 

Eventually I'll get my own thread started....the usual work/home life delays have affected my progress on, well, everything these days!

 

Again, outstanding work!

 

Regards,

 

Tim W.

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Hi Tim, go for it! It isn't too difficult a job, honest! I had a look at a real Swordfish today at the FAA Museum, Yeovilton, and these rib/tape features really are subtle, and I'm sure your model will look the better for it. I'm going to repair those out-of-line rudder tapes though, if I leave them they will always irritate my eye!

 

Hopefully I'll get a bit more done this week-end.

TTFN,

 

Tim

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  • 1 month later...

Lovely work! I am currently building a Mk1; so looking forward to see this finished. I am retired from a life's work in a model shop, and sorely miss the laser and 3D printer there. It sure helped some of my scratchbuilding efforts. You should talk with your boss about mfg'ing your parts as saleable product. :)

Kevin

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  • 1 year later...

Sorry, yes, a bit. The motorcycle accident threw a monkey wrench in the last 8 months plans and projects, but I will post some pictures.

 

I must update my avatar pic as well, that Suzuki has gone to the great race track in the sky..... sniff...

 

But I have a brand new V Strom instead! it is an ill wind......

 

Tim

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  • 7 months later...

I finally managed to clear a days ME-time, so dug this project out from under all the other drawings, books, magazines and boxes. I've decided to do this as a Mk III, so needed the radar installation, and found the WWP book R 068 has a cracking set of pictures of the Duxford Mk III. That and Bob Brown at MDC kindly sent me some data he had, plus I managed to get some copies of the original installation documents from the National Records Office....

 

Still some more details to CAD up, but I hope to get the 'real' parts built over the holidays, while the workshop is quiet. 

 

Radar_Inst01.jpg

 

 

More soon!

 

I've primed the wings and some of the engine parts, but the fuselage needs more work, mainly to correct the shape of the lower nose panels behing the engine, which are a smooth shape on the model, but have a distinct crease on the real thing.  More pics shortly.

 

Tim

 

PS just noticed, that balloon ref to a TR3507 off to the left is redundant!! Ignore it...

Edited by wunwinglow
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  • 4 weeks later...

A bit more progress, reshaped the lower nose to the 'creased' form it really has, rather than a smooth transition to a circle where the engine mounts, Also, nearly done the Mk III radar aerial radome. None of the published drawings looked right, so this has been done by eye, and referencing the model, so it probably is way off!! Still, it looks OK when on the airframe.

 

Trump%20Swordfish%20cheeks%201.jpg

 

 

Trump%20Swordfish%20radome%201.jpg

 

More from the cockpit area shortly.

 

Tim

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